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Yeast starter - 1/2 lb Light DME boiled into 1.5 L water 1 vile White Labs Dry English Ale Yeast (WLP007) Fermented for two days Malts - 1.5 lb Rahr 2-row 1.5 lb British Pale 1 lb Crystal 40 7 lb Liight DME 1 tbsp Burton Water Salts Malts Steeped for 45 minutes up to 170 F 7 lb Light DME @ 75...

My first attempt is going to be to try to culture yeast from Schneider Aventinus, a wheat doppelbock.

Doesn't malting the grains extract the fermentable sugar from them?

And conservatives use fear mongering and tax cuts for the rich.

If I let it finish then I don't like it, I'll have made 55 bottles of beer I don't want to drink. That's why I'm trying to avoid.

Could I just use grains instead of DME for the carbonation to add more flavor? I'd have to be very careful not to bottle bomb something though.

So I tried to make an IPA. The boil and everything went fine and now I have transferred it into secondary fermentation. The gravity was at 1.018 (a little high) during the transfers. I tasted it and the problem I have with it is that it's too light on the body for the amount of hops in there. So...

Nvm, found it! =) "Bottle conditioned The label says the beer is bottle conditioned, and thus it has live yeast (unless the label is lying...). Note that the yeast may or may not be the primary strain. "

Thanks, one question though. What exactly does "bottle conditioned" refer to? A yeast that is good for specifically bottling?

I use a 6.5 gallon carboy for my primary and a 5 gallon for my secondary. It works well because I target the recipe for a 5.5 gallon batch. You lose about half a gallon between the transfer so then I have a full 5 gallon carboy after that to get the most out of each brew.

I'm interested in using a yeast starter to re-culture yeast from commercially available beers. From what I've heard the process is simple as making a starter then dumping some of the beer in. The catch is hear is that some breweries change their carbonation yeast in order to prevent people from...