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You can increase the fermentability and affect head retention by hitting the same temperature rests that you would during a decoction. You won’t get the decoction flavor though. There is a camp out there that says you could use melanoidin malt to help emulate it. I don’t have experience to say...

Thanks for the suggestions. I tried rocking it and found I was just splashing it and it wasn’t breaking up the cake in the bottom. I then stirred it, flushed with CO2 and increased temp to 74F. Gravity has dropped to 1.015 since then so I am see progress again.

I am doing a La Chouffe clone that I started on 5/26. Last time I tried one I fermented it warm in the high 70s and got bad fusel alcohols. Below is the recipe and the gravity readings I have taken. Fermentables: 12 lbs 6 oz Belgian Pilsner 8 oz Cara 8 1 lb clear candi sugar Infusion mashed at...

220v could be 1 phase or 3 phase, 380v is 3 phase. The 3 phase motors may be able to be used with a VFD but I would check with the manufacturer before throwing a drive on it. Many small motors will overheat when put on a drive or don’t have the proper windings to handle one.

I’m very interested. PM sent

I want to try doing a lambic and I’ve read I will need aged hops. Has anyone gotten any from hopsdirect or can anyone suggest a source? https://hopsdirect.com/products/choice-debittered-pellets

I am doing a Berliner Weisse soon using Wyeast's 3191-PC blend with lacto and brett. Normally I would oxygenate before pitching with a tank and diffusion stone. Should I oxygenate before pitching this blend? I'm not sure if the lacto in the blend changes anything. I was trying to find a...

Thanks for the information. My fg was 0.996

If Santo falls through and you’re willing to ship I’m interested

I am doing my first wine kit, a Cru Select Cabernet. I started primary on 2/25/18 in a bucket and on 3/10/18 I transfered to secondary in a 6 gallon carboy. After transferring to secondary I degassed, added sulphite, potassium sorbate, kiesesol and chitosan. I also topped up with another bottle...

You could save co2 and carb naturally. I will put in half the amount of priming sugar as normal, purge a few times and fill to 12 psi. The beer isn’t completely carbonated when it is done but it is close. I have put in the full amount of priming sugar before and found the keg overprimed. I do...

You shouldn’t need to keep adding co2 to maintain the deal on a keg. I regularly leave kegs for months and they stay sealed.

I have the same unit and really like it. I can fit 3 full size ball locks and 1 3g on the hump in back. I put a top on it and built a coffin with Intertap faucets.

If it’s galvanized I wouldn’t use it. Acidic environments will corrode he zinc quickly, not sure if it’s something you want to ingest. Edit: I just saw this is from 2012...

The general consensus is that the water softener will add too much sodium, it’s better to use the hard water. My outside spigots are not softened so I grab water from them for brewing. If I use water from indoors I will bypass the softener, fill up buckets of water and then turn off the bypass.

I’m thankful for my family and will be drinking a brown ale

I’m grateful for my family.

If you’re souring in your kettle you don’t need seperate equipment assuming none of your cold side equipment touches the lacto infected wort. If you were souring in your fermenter the you would want a second set.

Thanks for the heads up but I’m good now

I want to make sure I understand your comment about DMS. Are you saying as long as you are above 170 that DMS isn’t a problem? I thought it was a problem anytime above 140 when you aren’t driving it off with the boil.