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To me, it does appear to be etching, as Vale71 mentioned above. I have some experience with that type of etching on my beer glasses. Unfortunately, it is permanent. I used to clean my glasses with PBW, which does a great job, but etches the glass if left in contact too long. Now I use...

After prohibition and before the proliferation of craft beer, Americans were subjected to decades of low flavor, headless (or near headless macro beer). As a result, for 2 generations American beer drinkers either didn't know, or forgot what it was like to drink flavorful beer with a good head...

Okay, now I understand. Of course, I do pay attention to more than just the sulfate to chloride ratio. MB, when it comes to brewing water, you keep me thinking, and I am happy to be enlightened.

Thanks Martin. I know that I have a lot to learn when it comes to water chemistry. I have used your spreadsheet in the past with some success, but now I'll have to give it another try. Would you please elaborate on why I should not rely on sulfate/chloride ratio?

Good point, but with most brews, I am usually more concerned with the sulfate/chloride ratio than a few more ppm. Now, thanks to you, I will not be avoiding measurements in mg/L.

Vikeman, I do sincerely want to thank you for calling my attention to the fact that the difference in mg/L and ppm is basically negligible. I can't believe that for so long I had not compared the two.

Okay, if you say so. As I said, I'm no expert. I am familiar with with ppm, so that's what I use. Thanks for the tip.

Your well water properties and consistency depends on your location, source, and rock strata. I can tell you from experience that most well water is more consistent than municipal water supplies that rely on surface water sources. First of all, you will need more information than is shown in...

Very interesting! Maybe my memory is what has changed. I usually don't have a problem remembering, unless it was 5 minutes ago.

Thanks to all you homebrewtalkers for keeping me entertained and my interests piqued! This past year, I have been too busy to devote as much attention to this community as I would have liked. As for Anchor Steam, it has been a favorite of mine for many years. I too, think that it has changed...

Looks good to me.

Very interesting, this discussion about rye. I have used flaked rye in a couple of beers, but really couldn't pick out much, if any noticeable flavor contribution. I think I used 1 lb. in a 5 gal. batch. Now, my interest is piqued. I'll have to try a recipe with a mix of flaked and malted...

Lucky dog! Conicals are great, but pricy. I'm jealous!

Just keep in mind that temperature is of utmost importance in producing good beer. Belgian Norwegian farmhouse yeasts are among the few yeasts that can ferment cleanly in temps. above the 70s Fahrenheit. Whatever the temp. is in the location of your fermentor, you should expect that peak...

Most Kveik would work, but I would use Hothead.

Based on the info you have provided, (unless I missed something) I see one major issue: Your fermentation temp is too high. Safale S-04 has a Recommended temperature range: 64F-72F. Your kitchen is at 75F, and active fermentation can raise internal temps by 7F or more. I would expect a very...

It sounds like it's off to a good start. Just don't let the ferm. temps get too high. Good luck, and don't forget to tell us how this one turns out.

It should be just fine. I try to pitch the yeast at about 65F, and allow it to warm up a couple degrees a day for the first 2 days (not exceeding 70F). That usually gives the yeast a good healthy start.

It turned out great. I like the mildly fruity and malty character WLP005 leaves in the beer. I produces flavorful British ales, especially bitters. I have never had a problem fermenting with WLP005.

You could try Hot Head yeast for for warm ferments. I've had good results with it for American Amber, and a Stout. Norwegian and some Belgian strains work well at elevated temps.