Search results

Sounds like Dimethyl Sulfide (DMS) to me. How did fermentation go? What type of yeast and how much did you pitch? How long did it ferment? What was the OG and FG? At what tempurature? Hop stands can leave DMS in the finshed wort. SMM is coverted to DMS at 140F or above. I've tasted pale...

Where these wet hops you just froze? or did you dry them out first before freezing? Freezing wet hops is not recommended. I've never been a fan of wet hopped beers. They always have a vegetable off flavor to me. I like Simcoe in small doses as a late hop or dry hop only. An over Simcoe'd...

Helium beer was an April fool’s joke. Run a google search and you will find Helium beers are darn near impossible to make. He is one of the least soluble gases. He is 700 times less soluble than CO2. The second you opened the tap the He is gone. N is 50 times less soluble. You will be...

When you say "let the sample cool a bit before using my refractometer". How long is a bit? How big was the sample? Even if your refractometer has ATC they are notrious for been off if the sample is to hot. When I pull a sample. I pull enough to check pH and gravity. That 1/2 oz of fluid...

I have both the 40# and 60# ones. The 60# don't have the slotted tops and bottoms but they stack OK. They do slide around a little. What I do with my 40# ones is open a new sack on brew day. Pull the grains I need for the batch and put the rest in vault. If I remember right they are only...

Yes, you should be able to run a wheat beer on your system. I would for sure use rice hulls. Wheat will gum up the works quickly.

What Seatazz said. You are compacting the grain bed. You could even be colaping the filterhexx. I'm not sure what it's made of but it looks like it will compress pretty easily. There is no need to run the pump full throttle. You really only need enough flow to keep the tempurature uniform...

AH...your striking in 9-10 degrees hotter. No issues you are just bring the room temp grains up to mash temperature. Your enzymes will be just fine!

I would say. Yes, you are denaturing the enzymes faster by running the HLT 10 degrees higher. I dough in and start the pump right away. My kettles lose heat quickly so I have to get the HERMS kicked in quickly to hold temp. With my 20 gallon HERMS I only have to keep the HLT 1-2 degrees...

Wow that looks nice!

How much dead space do you have under the pizza tray false bottom? Where is your dip tube located? What is your pizza tray made of? What is the mash tun made of? Without supports, I'd bet you have about 1/2 gallon or less under the pan. Not sure what pump you are using but most are around...

If you ran a pump and did not have the pan supported it for sure collapsed. There are plenty of pictures on this forum of mangled false bottom that had supports. Once that vacuum is created, all the particulate matter fills the holes like concert. Even if you remove the pump the holes are...

If you price those items individually bought from a reputable source. You are not really saving any money. The PID, RTD, and heat sink are not the problem. I would never ever buy an unbranded SSR. OR a Fotek SSR ever...ever...ever! They could cost you a whole lot more not if they burn up...

EDIT I CAN'T READ! Old post.

Pump or no pump? How are you supporting the pizza tray mash tun?

Honestly, I've never had a priming issue with a center inlet pump head. I do have the outlet at the 12 o'clock position so the air goes right out the outlet. Primes every time.

For me price was the driving factor for my pump selection. I was doing a full build so I had to pinch pennies. At that time the chugger was hard to beat. Especially the center inlets. Those MkII look interesting at that price point but I don't know anything about them. I would for sure...

The shipping on bulk grains is a price savings killer. MoreBeer sacks come in all sizes. If I need 3# munich for a recipe I always order the 5# sack. I pull my older inventory for the recipe, add a little new if needed, and store the new away for the next brew day. I don't know how, MoreBeer...

Straight from the JB Weld web site. Is J-B Weld toxic? No. When fully cured, J-B Weld is non-toxic. However, we do not recommend consuming the product. I would not use it unless it has a food safe blessing. Silver Solder is safe and easy to use. Or just use weld-less fittings.

Is it the Stainless steel model with a chrome faust? If so, they use lead anodes in the chrome plating process. Nothing to worry about. I got the stupid Prop 65 paperwork with the stainless steel siphon I ordered last week. Makes no sense it's not like I plan on eating the tiny plastic trub cap.