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That's just the rest of the yeast and proteins that drop out when chilled. Any bottle conditioned beer will have these (even commercial ones). Totally normal.

Boil it!

You can, and I'm pretty sure people have. Just have to make sure that it doesn't fall apart or melt or whatever if you boil it (to sanitize). That's what is nice about the stainless ones. You're still going to want to push oxygen through it rather than air.

I'd like to add that if you don't already have brewing software, like Beersmith, I'd highly recommend it. It's been incredibly accurate for me with regards to water volumes and you can tweak it very well according to your individual equipment. It's taken a lot of the mystery out of the brewing...

Ok, I'm not that lazy. I did the math. With the full 23.25lb grain bill, at 71% efficiency, you wind up with 1650.75... call them 'parts'. It doesn't matter. With 19.75lbs at 71%, you get 1402.25 parts. Add the 2.1 lbs of DME at the full 80%, and you're adding 280 'parts' (that's 3.5 x 80...

.6lb to 1lb 2 row is probably assuming 75-80% efficiency or thereabouts? The difference of a few percent for that small portion of your grain bill probably takes the overall percentage delta down to 1% or less (too lazy to do the math). In other words, if you use 2.1 lbs of DME to replace the...

Perfect. :) Just checking.

I wouldn't change anything regarding IBUs. You'll wind up a little lower on FG, but if you've already brewed this at 151, it isn't going to be that drastic a change. The flaked barley and oats will add body as it is, so it should have good mouthfeel. I like my stouts on the dry side.

Hmmm, that's weird. I've had some fruity, estery flavors come through when my fermentation temps were too high. Your malt and hop bill shouldn't give you grapefruit really....

What yeast are you using?

Where are you getting the 74% efficiency number from? Is that your average efficiency at lower OG brews? If so, it will go down as your grain bill goes up.

I use this: Siphon Spray Wort Aerator | MoreBeer Some people hate it. I think I paid $2 for it. When I rack to my carboy, I gravity feed from about 4 feet above the carboy using an auto-siphon. I get a nice spray from the aerator tip. I just keep the tip above the level of liquid in the...

Yes you can buy silica gel packets online very inexpensively and they can be reused by microwaving out the water when damp. I'll find the ones I use for my camera gear and post them up.

Most grocery stores or even Home Depot sells it near the registers. You can go and fill up bottles there- like your fermenter for instance.

Oh man, my OCD is kicking in...

I would not expect any beer to taste anywhere near right at 4 days after fermentation. Your beer will be fine. Wait more. There are SOME flavors you can detect early on from big brew day problems, but grainy/husky/fruity/yeasty/grassy/banana-y/buttery/etc/etc/etc are all flavors that the...

Typically when you bottle, you don't need to add yeast. You'll be priming with more sugar, so they will go ahead and carb your beer. However, with a big 9 ish percent beer like the Noel, they may be counting on much of the yeast going dormant or floccing due to the alcohol content. Still...

you'll be fine. That jar has trillions of yeast cells in it. A few bacteria wont do a thing. Rest assured there are bacteria. Even if you didn't have head space.

Also - if you haven't tried first wort hopping yet, this would be a good time to try it! It increases hop utilization and rounds out flavors. I just did this for the first time myself with an IIPA that is in secondary dry hopping right now. The green stuff tastes pretty dang excellent if I do...

Yeah, I've had mine for about a year and a half (maybe longer?). Just check the factory gap - you might want to tighten it up just a tick. My Hitachi drill has a low rpm/high torque switch, and I keep in on that and run about 2/3rds speed. I could probably just go full bore, but I've read...