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Sitting here sipping this as I type. The coffee definitely has a softer mouthfeel. Chocolate notes are more prominent, but in balance with the fruitiness. The sharpness I thought might be contributed by the higher sulfates is definitely softer. Overall it's pretty good but I will probably cut...

In the spirit of further experimentation, I decided to come up with a slightly different profile. In one gallon of RO water with a 4 TDS reading: .25g Gypsum .20g Calcium Chloride .25g Magnesium Chloride .3g Baking Soda Ends up with a water profile of: Calcium:34 Magnesium:8 Sodium:11...

I'd like to thank you for posting this. I've been screwing around with building water for coffee for a while, and getting somewhat frustrated. I was dosing my RO water (4 TDS) very simply with CaCl and Sodium Bicarb, as I figured that the chloride would give the coffee that full/round flavor...

I didn't phrase it correctly. Star san will kill yeast cells, given enough time and mixed at the proper ratios and at the correct pH. However, Iodophor works differently. The most succinct quote I found on it states: "Iodine/iodophores attack sulphur-containing molecules. These chemical groups...

You should stop scrubbing your kettle with a green scotchbrite pad. The abrasives in the green pad are removing the chromium outer layer that makes stainless... well, stainless. There are blue scotchbrite pads available, I usually find them in Walmart. They don't have any abrasive embedded in...

Well, if the equipment is visibly dirty, there's no point in sanitizing. That goes without saying. As far as effectiveness, star san will not 'kill' yeast or mold due to it's mode of operation, which is acid based. Iodophor is a halogen based sanitizer and far more broad spectrum. It will...

If you suspect an infection of some sort, break it all down and give it a wash in fresh made iodophor, it kills far more than star san does.

I've got a 200 GPD setup with a 35 gallon atmospheric storage tank. The membranes have a 100psi booster pump feeding them and is controlled by float switches, and I have a small demand pump that feeds a 3 gallon pressurized tank to supply water to my refrigerator and a separate faucet at my...

RO System

I'll throw in my vote for Buckeye Hydro. The higher GPM systems aren't usually physically bigger, it's the RO Membrane (along with pressure/temperature) that determines the Gallons Per Day rating. However, the higher the GPD rating, usually the worse the rejection rate is. A 75 GPD membrane is...

Count me in.

I can't say enough good things about silicone keg lid rings. I used these: https://www.amazon.com/417-Silicone-Ring-Durometer-Pack/dp/B07R738FXK

Most snowblowers these days don't have fuel petcocks. But even if they did it's 99% certain that there's a carburetor bowl drain plug that can be removed to drain both the carburetor and the fuel tank. Once it's done dripping, replace the plug. Start it up and that will remove the last of the...

I'll take a ferm tank.

Or, even easier and cheaper: Drain the fuel out of it completely before storing it for the season.

This is not entirely correct advice. It very much depends on the yeast being used and the desired end result.

I'd like to point out that I jinxed the hell out of myself with this post and in December old faithful gave up. Upside of it is I decided to go with a Kegland kegerator that I got without tower/taps and moved my hardware in.

I'll throw in a recommendation to switch to the EVABarrier tubing as well. My old setup had the Bev Seal Ultra tubing, which while it was great from a barrier point of view, it absolutely sucked from a length of line needed and flexibility point of view. I swapped out the 16'-17' of...

The problem with using a freezer or refrigerator to make a 'glycol chiller' is those appliances are designed for static insulated environment cooling. The simply don't have the BTU capacity to deal with the additional heat load of both the fermenting wort *or* the heat absorption of the...

Easiest way to prevent fuel system issues when storing power equipment that doesn't get used regularly is to drain the tank and run the carb dry. Stabil helps but doesn't do much when the fuel is evaporating away in the carb bowl and causing varnish.