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I usually brew BIAB on my electric setup (build thread here), but last night I decided to knock out a quick full-volume boil extract brew of a session IPA. It was really fun and made for a much quicker brew day than a typical BIAB. I steeped the specialty grains for 15 minutes before ramping...

Great thread, thanks for documenting your build. I have a very similar setup with a Bayou Classic 10-gallon pot. I have the steamer basket that goes with it, but I've never used it. The only time I've had a problem with circulation is when I was brewing with a massive grain bill. For that...

My eventual goal is for multiples. I like the idea of a single cold water reservoir and pump with a manifold and sprinkler zone valves and a logic controller. This would be very similar to the systems discussed in this thread. The sprinkler zone valves likely would be cheaper than the 1/2"...

Thanks for the explanation and for the link to your other thread. I may consider an aquarium chiller for the future. The only way I could justify the up-front expenditure is to leverage it to cool multiple fermenters. I do like the fact that it would work with either a Cool Zone jacket and a...

I circulate using one of Wilserbrewer's bags and a Topsflo pump. My pickup tube is 1/2" elbow facing down with about 1/4" clearance to the bottom of the pot. I've only once had clogging problems and that was with a really large grain bill. I've been using my local homebrew shop for the crush...

Thanks for the link. I had not known of aquarium chillers being used for fermentation, but it does make sense. When you use this for your conical, do you use the temp controller on the unit, or a separate temp controller linked to the conical? I guess you'd want both the cooling unit and the...

You'd need a way to disconnect the Cool Zone jacket from the system without losing all of your coolant. Do PC cooling systems have any kind of disconnects that shut off flow when disconnected?

I agree, it would be much more space efficient. I guess it would be a closed loop? You'd need a different pump, because the ones used with a reservoir system are pond pumps and must be fully or partially submerged to work. I've never built a water-cooled PC, but perhaps you could use a pump...

Would the radiator just take the place of the reservoir? Or would there still be a small reservoir for the pump to sit in, with the water routed through the radiator and then into the CoolZone (with the radiator mounted inside the refrigerator)?

Thanks for the input. I've been relying on various online calculators for predicting OG without knowing the formulas behind the calculations, so this is really helpful. I very likely will repeat this recipe, so I'll have a chance to tweak the mash and boil times and see where I come out...

Sorry my original post didn't mention that; I added the sugar (0.5 lbs. of maltodextrin) during the boil. @joyceman: I've noticed that different versions of the recipe call for a 90-minute boil. Do you do a 90-minute or 60-minute boil? Regarding pH -- I've not started testing that yet...

Thanks for the great input, folks. I used a refractometer for both readings. I cannot rule out measurement error, particularly with respect to volumes, because those are judged by eye using my sight glass. This does make sense, although one question is how can I increase my pre-boil...

Can anyone advise as to where I've gone wrong in my calculations or my method? I came close to my predicted pre-boil gravity of 1.050 (actual was 1.047), but missed my predicted original gravity of 1.064 (actual was 1.057). The recipe is It's a Fat Head Headhunter IPA clone: Brew...

Here's my cost spreadsheet. I made a few changes as I went -- I ended with a Topsflow pump instead a Chugger, for example, but it's generally accurate. It does not include the plate chiller, either. - Woodbrews

Not to answer for russki, but I clean mine with PBW and a scrubby sponge. I also apply food-grade silicone on the element face to keep it from rusting from any residual moisture left after cleaning. I've done some .070 and 0.80 beers with no scorching, but not anything bigger.

I'm not challenging this point, just trying to understand it. How will I know that my beer's been oxidized? I can't say I've ever detected the so-called cardboard taste. My racking practices are certainly not as thorough or sophisticated as those discussed here (although they're getting...

Welcome! Where in NoVA? I'm in N. Arlington.

This, from Humbolt Beer Works, is one of the best explanations I've found. An other good explanation can be found here, among back issues of MoreBeer brewing techniques. Finally, another good explanation, with a parts list, can be found here, in back issues of The Beer Journals. HTH...

I do 5 gallon eBIAB with recirculation, on the theory that recirculation helps to avoid temperature stratification in the mash. With recirculation, I have observed at most a 1 to 2 degree differential between the top of the kettle and the bottom where the probe is (under the bag). During a...

Thanks! I've been flushing my keg with starsan as a separate step. I had not thought to flush it and then fill it without ever opening it. But it makes sense. I'll have to try that on the next batch. Woodbrews