Search results

I vent through the gas post, with a tube leading to a carboy of sanitizer. Essentially an enormous airlock.

Yes, my fermenter is usually on my kitchen counter, with the keg on the floor. And I also tilt it, especially when it gets stuck. I usually do a few psi to transfer. It sounds like a leak may be the issue, although I do remember the fermenter suddenly getting more rigid and seeming to take on...

I've done this mod (though with the plastic posts because the metal version of the pressure kit was backordered everywhere), and so far I love it's impact on my beer. Soooo much less degrading of my beer over time. But lately, I've been having issues getting the last six inches or so of beer to...

Do you purge oxygen from your kegs? If so, how do you do it? And how do you transfer your beers to the keg? Do you cold crash? If so, how? Those are all the points in the process where oxygen ingress happens the most, so some detail on your processes here would help figure out where you can...

At that price point, I'd get the cereal killer from Adventures in Homebrewing. It's $99 with free shipping, and it's great. I've had one for about nine months now and love it. Not as good as the more expensive three rollers, but gets the job done. I expect you'll get much better customer service...

Option 2 is definitely easier and a very reasonable way to go. Freshness was my biggest concern, followed by better control over efficiency. I wasn't as concerned with making up the cost difference with the mill, though I got a pretty basic one. But it's all very specific to your individual...

I don't have any good brew shops near me, unfortunately. So I buy almost all my grains online, but the shipping can get expensive if I'm not buying from a place with free shipping. So I now keep a sack of two-row on hand so I don't have to buy as much base malt online. I also tend to plan out my...

You'll love jumping to BIAB! You just can get a cheap bag to try it out, if you want a starting place. 8 gallons should be big enough for most batches. If you look into a AIO system, I would also check out Clawhammer Supply. If I drank enough beer to make 5 gallon batches, I would have one of...

I overbuild all my starters and then make a new starter the next time I use that yeast. I do 2.5 gallon batches, so I typically just double the starter recommended by the yeast calculators, which is still small enough to work in a 2L flask. Then I save a little less than half of the yeast in a...

If you use a T connector, you can hook up both the balloon and an airlock/blowoff at the same time. The co2 from fermentation will go into the balloon first and when that's full, it will go out through the airlock. So you wouldn't have to time anything. Then when you cold crash, it pulls first...

No, a bucket isn't really pressure capable because the seal around the lid isn't tight enough. The Fermonster lids screw on and have an O-ring seal so they can handle a few psi of positive pressure. They're very cheap, and the modifications are pretty simple with minimal equipment. There are...

Definitely don't cold crash if you don't have a way to handle suck back. But a cold crash is still the best way to keep dry hops out of your keg. With this batch, you could do a cool crash and ramp it down very slowly. Like a few degrees per day. That will usually allow enough time for...

You can get more attenuation by pitching more of the same yeast if there was something wrong with the first yeast. For example, maybe you originally pitched a liquid yeast pouch that had expired, and there just weren't enough cells to really get a healthy fermentation going, so they stopped...

I wouldn't assume that airlock bubbles mean it's still going. They're not a reliable indicator of fermentation, imo. With 1.090 it's certainly possible the yeast is still working, but most likely it's done and just off-gassing. Check the gravity and see what's up. That's the only way to be sure...

I have several Torpedo kegs. I have two of the 2.5 gallon ones for beer, and I keep a 1.5 gallon keg for kombucha. I've been using them about a year now, and I really love them. They're super high quality, very pretty (if you care about that), and as mentioned above will stack with disconnects...

When you ask about untapped kegs, what scenario are you imagining? Are you worried about not having space in a keezer/kegerator for all your kegs, or do you just want to know what to do with them while they're in the keezer/kegerator but before you're ready to drink? The carbonation will be a...

I'm not sure why you would want to use the yeast to carbonate in the bottles if you're moving the beer through a keg with CO2 anyway. I'd just put it in the keg, force carbonate, and then bottle from the keg. Or bottle with priming drops directly from the fermenter. Both of those methods seems...

Just looked up that kit, great choice! I love fermenting in my Fermonster. I've modified the lid to let me transfer beer to a keg using CO2, so it never touches oxygen. It's awesome, and I love not worrying about shattering a carboy on my foot. With the spigoted one, you can also bottle directly...

I'd also echo the recommendations for kveik. Check out lutra, which now comes dry. It's got a neutral profile that would work for the recipes you list above. And kveik won't give you off flavors in the warmer temperature range. US-05 is a great workhorse yeast that'll also go well with any of...

You can't go wrong with any of the yeast selections that are recommended with a kit. And each of those recipes is going to be pretty versatile. They'll work with any number of neutral ale yeasts out there. There will be slightly different vibes among each yeast option, but they'll all work. I'd...