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Great .. I'll give it a couple of more days. Thanks HometownHoosier. :mug:

Thanks for the information :) I am not worried about if the yeast will finish or not. I am interested in hearing if the slow start affected the final outcome of the beer. There have been some reports in this thread about that, but I want to be as sure as I can that this will not have any...

Can any of you that had the slow start please post how the beer turned out? My current beer is closing in on the 72 hour mark with absolutely no visible signs of activity. I will take it easy for at least 80 hours, but after that I will re-pitch.

Sorry for bumping a nearly month old thread, but I see that you have included your waterprofile, the target water profile and the amount of minerals. There only thing missing here is the amount of water that you're mashing with. I agree with remilard above about not adding alkalinity for...

Well, flocculation is a way to describe how well the yeast clump when they finish fermenting. A yeast which clumps well, drops faster (gravity has an easier time pulling the yeast out of suspension). The yeast drops even better when refrigerated, yes.

You can expect approximately the same amount of yeast count in a White Labs vial and Wyeast activator. If you prefer making starters for the White Labs vials, then you should feel the same way for the Wyeast packs IMHO. You can use Mr. Malty's PRC to see what the recommended pitching rate is...

Well, flocculation depends more on a yeast's strain characteristics. If you look at the data for both yeast strains you will see that the CalAle (wlp001) has a medium flocculation and the Pilsner (wlp800) has a medium to high flocculation, according to the data available on the white labs...

I used this yeast a little while ago (the bottles are carbonating right now .. three days since I bottled) and I find that the bananaaroma is dominating during the fermentation, however a couple of days after the yeast had finished (5 days approx), I smelled no dominating banana aroma anymore...

Well, you can of course pitch this 1/4 if needed and keep the rest as yeast nutrient for your next batch ..

Set the viability to 25% in the PRC (don't calculate by date) to see how big a starter you need. If you want answers to how much you will get if you have 1 liter or 2 liter starters, you need to play with the numbers in the calculator (usually enough just to play with OG)

Personally I like Hexmonkey's design. It is simple and very efficient. As for having the pressure inside the fermenter less than the outside versus having your normal airlock system, consider this: On a recent batch I smelled mold growing somewhere in the fridge. When I opened my plastic...

It takes a bit longer for yeast to ferment from 1.090 than from lets say ~1.050 - 1.060. What I would do is wait until it has finished fermenting (the gravity has not changed in at least 3 days), then look at if I have a problem or not. If there is no problem (the FG is approximately where it...

My bad.. I was trying to reply an on-topic question with an off-topic answer. Thank you for noticing and sorry about that. Star-san mixed in proportions of higher than 300ppm dodecylbenzenesulfonic acid requires a rinse according to the technical specifications from Five Star Chemicals. It...

Only in the no-rinse proportions. I regularly use US-05 and it is always a success, no band-aid flavors or smell whatsoever. The krausen never drops for me unless I crash cool + use finings (gelatine). As for water, it's both super important and not super important .. it's super important...

I know that this beer --> http://www.ratebeer.com/beer/olvisholt-skjalfti/84417/ <-- is brewed with S-23 at temperatures around 19°C (around 66°F). I believe the lagering period is around one month, however I am not 100% certain. Just let it ferment out, give it a couple of days extra in the...

If your fermentation will get stuck, I would look at piching some additional yeast (or rousing the yeast on the bottom of the fermenter). Worst case scenario will result in beer :)

RDWHAHB or as we say in Iceland, SÁEÖFÞH You may have underpitched which may result in some off-flavors and aromas that were not initially designed in this recipe, but you like the end result. I do not recommend that you pitch more sugar/yeast, since the flavor is already in the beer...

You can always do a bucket-in-a-bucket budget fermentation temperature control. You need a bucket which can hold your fermentation bucket, plus a little extra (so the water acts as a temperature buffer, in case either the environment or the fermenting liquid decides to spike on you), one inlet...

When you see visible signs of fermentation, the yeast have already done most of their initial reproducing and have started eating. According to literature that I have read on the internet (http://brewiki.org/BeerFlavours#head-ca729d7916193306af853d5b853be848cfe258a1), ester production is less...

You can go to their french website, that one does not have a warning attached to it. http://www.fermentis.fr/FO/60-Beer/60-11_product_rangeHB.asp It's in English and allows you to view all the info sheets.