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Betadine (tamed iodine or iodofor) also works.

A Tropical Stout as good as Lion Stout. I make a pretty good one, but it's missing something........

I feel that a Partial mash is the perfect transition from a simple extract to All grain. It also adds extra flavor and complexity to a simple extract recipe. But then, this is what I did, although my transition to PM was after 2-3 batches. Transition from PM to AG was about 1 year. And I'll...

With most of my meads it's taken 3-4 months and 2-3 rackings to have a completely clear mead. I do 1 G batches so often will store it in the fridge for a week to cold crash and occasionally will use gelatin to fine. And..... when backsweetening, it often clouds up again, adding another couple of...

Coriander flavor IS citrus. I've read somewhere in the past "use dried orange peel for bitterness and coriander for orange flavor".

Here's a thought- both the pyment and cyser will have tannins from the fruit. Tannins can coagulate proteins and act as a fining agent.

I do 1 gallon batches with OGs in the 1.105 range, which I'm not sure how much of a difference that makes, although I do pitch a whole packet of yeast in that 1 G, so it's a pretty hefty yeast pitch. I oxygenate the must and add nutrients at pitch (I use a combination of Wyeast beer and Fermax...

Joral- I don't know where you read that technique, but it's too much. Oxygenate for 30 seconds to 1 minute just before you pitch your yeast. I've seen it recommended to reoxygenate again in 24 hours with a really high starting gravity, but as Maylar says above, you shouldn't need anymore than...

When you add the proper amount of priming sugar to fully fermented product, then you shouldn't have bottle bombs. Use one of the priming sugar calculators.

OK, I'll be the one to say it: "Bubbles mean nothing". Get a SG reading and you'll see where you are in the fermentation process. You have plenty of visual evidence of fermentation, so no need to pitch more yeast. And it looks like your bottle temp is 71 which is fine for most of the yeast...

173 batches over 9 years, all of them bottled. Yes I do actually enjoy the whole process. And even better, rather than just 2,3 or 4 kegs, I have up to 18 different varieties/flavors of beers to try whatever my mood happens to be.

The PA+ are citric acid, which is why as an alternative you can add some lemonade powder to your water bottle to counteract the iodine after it's done it's job. I've wondered your question as well. I think it's probably a matter of pathogen numbers and concentration. When we're sanitizing...

DawgofMead- Here's something I haven't seen addressed in the comments (unless it's implied in Kyzaboy89's post): 4 lbs of honey plus maybe another lb of sucrose in a 1 gallon batch would probably give you a OG of around 1.200, which is wicked high. There are many, many posts where high starting...

I like the look of your bottles. My only question at this point is that before you backsweetened with the 3 lb. of honey, did you stabilize with sorbate and metabisulphite? If not then she will probably kick off another fermentation in the bottles and kick the corks out.

77.5 + 1gallon Acerglyn =78.5

1692.5 + 5G Loghouse Maple Porter = 1,697.5

I would suggest Don't rack for the 1st time until you've reached terminal gravity (FG). But, if you already did and your SG is too high, then it will probably take more than just adding more yeast to get fermentation restarted. If that's the case, then follow lukebuz's advice above.

From what I've read, One Step is a decent cleaner, but not a terribly effective sanitizer. I'd get some starsan or a iodinated sanitizer.

It does look like it to me. Hopefully it was just one bottle that didn't get properly cleaned and sanitized. I'd dump that bottle.

cscaudill- I've done exactly what your setup is. 9 years now and over 175 batches. Ales of all types year-round and lagers in the winter. It works. Why? The concept is thermal mass. The amount of water in the bath moderates the temperature swings. I take the temp of the bath 2-4 times daily...