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Just make sure they have DC output to drive SSRs. Some PIDs have AC output.

Back when I did 1 barrel batches, I built a mash tun out of one of those blue HDPE 55 gallon barrels. I just tipped it over into a wheel barrel and hauled it out back to feed the deer. It was much lighter and actually held temps better than stainless.

The enemy of good is better! If it doesn't leak, you are good to go!

Nicely done!

Cream ale is a great style! Rahr 6 row - 80% Flaked maize - 20% Noble hops - FWH and at flame out. BU:GU ~ 0.6 1056 makes an ok cream ale but it is a little boring. 2112 gives a maltier finish. 1007 also makes a decent cream ale.

Could one simply sit the bag on top of an existing false bottom?

I have seen several people post pics of using a bag in the mash tun of a two or three vessel system. I can see a big advantage during clean up. Any problems using a bag with a recirculating system (RIMS or HERMS)? Perhaps Wilserbrewer can chime in...

Good luck - I am sure you will be happy with your choices! Would love to see pics of your gear after you get it set up.

In my opinion, the simplest way to control your mash temp with a herms is to put the "controlling" temp probe at the top of the mash tun and put the "monitoring" temp probe at the mash tun drain. Thus, you control the temp of wort as it returns to the top of the mash and monitor the temp of the...

I make 10 gallon batches. My grain absorption is the standard amount - slightly less than a pint per pound. For a 12 plato beer, I mash in with about 17.5 gallons. Preboil volume is about 13.5-14.0 gal.

I've never timed it but I am guessing 15-20 minutes. I have about a gallon of dead space under my false bottom.

Now that I brew mostly no-sparge, I would switch to 2 vessels and RIMS for a smaller footprint and overall simplicity. That said, a 2 vessel HERMS would be about the same. I have no insight into your question about RIMS and raising mash from 105 to 145.

I currently use a 3 vessel herms system - no sparge. If I were starting over, I would switch to a two vessel RIMS system - no sparge. All that said, I think your proposed approach will work great. You could save the water from your BK to use for clean up.

I sanitize my plate chiller by recirculating hot wort thru it for a minimum of 5 minutes prior to chilling. I am meticulous about back flushing and cleaning it after each use.

I have had good luck with it if I keep my fermentation temps in the low 60s. That said, I prefer wyeast 1968.

My panel uses a 1 amp fuse (smart start circuit) and a 5 amp fuse (all other 120 vac stuff). My march pump only uses about 1.5 amps.

I am a big fan of 2206. I pitch big and ferment at 48-50F. I rarely do diacetyl rests. I have never had diacetyl issues with this yeast. I have not used 2308.

I have 4 Littelfuse fuse holders left over from my build. They are rated for 20 amps and have standard size spade terminals. I will give them to you. PM me your name and address if interested.

I smell DMS in the condensate for about 60-70 minutes into the boil and then it disappears. I run my drain hose into a sink.

My control panel uses another relay for the safe start. I love your idea. Less steps. Less parts. Less wire. I cannot think of a downside!