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Extract?

What yeast strain, what is the fermentation temp? Do you have the ability to raise the temp?

I don't do juicy or "north east" IPA, but have been playing with the combination of whirlpool/dry hop/keg hop with good success

There is no "one way" to do pretty much anything that has to do with home brewing. Just because that is the way you brew, does not mean it is the only way to do it.

If at all possible, I would look into running power and water there, and drainage. I'm in the city, but have basically a 1-car garage as a workshop, and the lack of water/drainage is my only complaint (and turns up really often, when you think of cleaning and testing) and power allows for...

you haven't described the scratches, and I couple that with "do you boil in your flask"? if they are deep scratches in the bottom of the flask and you boil in the flask, I would think of replacing because of structural issues with the glass.

Depending on time above alcohol evaporation rate, you can approach removing 90-95% of the alcohol https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cooking_with_alcohol So while not a completely "free" beer, it can be greatly reduced. I think there's a "neutered beer" thread from many moons ago here as well.

There is the balance of intake and practice of moderation to begin with. Unless you are prepping for a show, a few beers a week should not hurt overall. It also opens up the opportunity to brew smaller batches.

If I were in your shoes, I'd keg/bottle them up and then they would be ready when you get back.

What hops did you use for the dry hop. May be fine to just give it an extended crash.

Did you boil the vinyl tubing?

At just over a gallon the pure pitch should be more than adequate. Batch size is a very important variable in pitch rates.

I have one of the tan 12v and a chugger, able to throttle both with valves on the discharge side. Bobby_M has a good video on pump maintenance as well that I'd recommend.

Are you moving to pumps? If so you can move to a single or two tier system bringing the vessels lower.

Need? Not a "need." Is it nice for high gravity brews, lagers, overbuilding? Very.

You're better off going full boil if can, the effect on bittering is fairly negligible.

Search rib cage chillers and you will get some better ideas. It is a good combination of max surface area and heat exchange from cold water moving a shorter distance.

I propagate my starters at room temp, but I also crash and decant. I want maximum replication from a starter, not worried about the flavor of the beer produced in the flask.

sold

In all honesty, you are just looking at two ways of doing the same thing. I have done both, and did not find advantages in BIAB that I expected, and settled on a batch sparge system. IMHO, there is nothing wrong with BIAB, but when people try to attack you for not doing it their, that is a...