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Hh Unfortunately I’m in the mode of trying to reduce my brewing footprint so while thats a great idea, it’s probably not gonna work for me. Although I am putting all my gear on two carts, so it could be possible. I guess it depends on if I can reuse the hopper, mount, etc

Hh

Have a three roller mill that does a solid job, but it’s a pain to adjust. I want to swap for a new mill that is 1) easy to adjust, and 2) fairly accurate, or at least reliable, settings. Preference overall is easy adjustment. Have been brewing a lot of beers with rye and wheat and my...

you're both tilting at wind mills. see last three lines of the post if you actually intend to respond to the actual posed question and not just misdirect into "semantics"

getting back into this as i noticed something that seems to go against your insistence that yeast are not motile. i had a semi-old starter of 3-4 months, made up 0.8L of wort and got that to spinning the day before i brewed. yada yada yada, i come back early the next morning and what do i...

slurry harvest is not an option. brewing beer is also an opportunity for infection when you're harvesting.

not sure why this didnt post two weeks ago. been sitting as "draft" for flocced yeast, we're talking a minute or two. no, it isnt. if it is, please post the part where its confirmed that you're separating active yeast from dead yeast. also- this is not yeast washing. its yeast rinsing...

that's way less productive than what i'm already doing. by taking only the yeast in active suspension and tossing what quickly sinks to the bottom im infinitely more likely to only pass on living cells. if the yeast is 100% flocced and/or inactive there's no way to know what you're keeping.

not saying i've never done it. but the goal here isnt to pitch into a fresh brew, its to restore starter health so you get another 6mos or so before i have to do it again.

got lazy and let the 4-5 yeasts i keep on hand get really old. probably 9 months, maybe bit more. ran them all through starters in past week. now going to run again and try and separate the dead. my technique had always been to do essentially what i just described. one starter to pull...

$50 is cost of materials igloo 3cft fridge insulation, caulking, unistrut base easily crashes 5gals. probably could do 10gals. i'd set it at 30+/-2 for crashing. never had any issues. add your pump and inkbird and you're good to go. located in east bay. could possibly meet in east bay or SF.

if i had the room for a dedicated ferm chamber i wouldnt need glycol

have seen that folks can be successful with 5gal batches down to cold crash temps using a dorm fridge. like this one: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/metzens-mini-fridge-glycol-chiller-conversion.631203/ so that said, while i was searching for a cheap used dorm fridge, i saw a dorm...

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i'll try to be as brief as possible here, but we're just starting construction on house and i wont have my typical brew setup. so in addition to lack of brewing space, i also have lack of a cold side. wife-boss is only letting me put 1.75gal keg in fridge as it isnt too much larger than a...

Looking to make a small glycol chiller, even have a free one offered to me. This is a more commercial style fridge, with no exposed evap coil up in the freezer area. Coil is in back wall it seems, with fan. Anybody taken one of these apart ? Wondering what the prospects of success are...

Kenmore elite side by side ferm fridge. Fits conicals on right, and cans/bottles/kegs on left. Runs strong, damn cold. Could also use as giant freezer if you want, it’s a beast. Located in East Bay, Oakland area.

tentative plans to be down in OC in july to visit family.

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