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BIAB is AG, by definition. It’s a bit silly to call it anything less.

I’m not 100% sure, but I’ve brewed other clean beers using the same equipment since then without any perceptible flaws. I did krausen it with Kölsch yeast so maybe that might have thrown things off? Water profile was amber balanced built from RO, mash pH target of 5.40. It’s entirely possible...

The one reason I buy more Pilsner than pale ale malt is you can always add to the grist to increase the body and mouthfeel. It’s a lot harder to take that same body away from Maris Otter or Golden Promise base, and the lightest color you can obtain is around 4-5 SRM. But they are quite...

Open fermentation is typically associated for yeast strains that are sensitive to back pressure like Weissbier and Saison. Though the German ale strain will produce a massive krausen, it’s not going to stall from using an airlock. For sanitation reasons, you really don’t want to emulate an open...

I’m hoping this one won’t be as orange-y as the last hoppy wheat I made. Brewed this one yesterday: 1.060 OG, 45 IBU, 4.5 SRM 49% Weyermann Pilsner 29% Great Western White Wheat 14% Briess Flaked Wheat 6% Simpsons Golden Naked Oats 2% Rice Hulls 30 min @ 148F, 30 min @ 160F, 10 min @ 167F...

That’s a hefty brew for your first attempt! Altbier is a personal favorite of mine, though I haven’t been fortunate enough to experience it firsthand in Düsseldorf. The recipe looks great, but you really don’t need rests at 45c / 55c, especially if you’re using fully modified Pilsner (standard...

It’s 15 more minutes of work than standard operating protocols for bottle conditioning a beer, which is pretty insignificant compared to the 4+ hours it takes to brew a beer. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_press

I used 8 oz in my old ale and it was barely noticeable — I would suggest using a pound.

If it was me, I would use a French press to make a saturated green tea with 170F water. Use 50g tea to 250 mL water, steep for 5-7 minutes, press it out, decant the liquid and then chill it to pitching temperatures. Then add 1-2g neutral yeast (either the same strain, EC-1118, or CBC-1), 10g of...

Black treacle is the only one that would make a perceptible difference in the finished product. You might as well use corn or invert sugar if you’re just looking to bump up the gravity — honey, D-180 and molasses will get lost under all the dark roast. Which isn’t necessarily a bad idea; I used...

I’ve found that most municipal water sources are acceptable for brewing, though I’ve only lived in northeast and mountain regions which have predominantly soft water. I can imagine that it’s more difficult for individuals in rural and southern areas to brew with the water they have — I’ve had...

They’re not necessary, but they improve mash efficiency and “set” the fermentable quotient of the wort. You can use a mash calculator such as Brewer’s Friend to calculate strike water and mash out water infusions. You just have to account for thermal losses of the mash (2-3 F/hr), which most...

I really regret starting with extract. I didn’t enjoy drinking either of my two extract batches, and as soon as I made my first AG batch I knew it was worth the leap. The only reason I didn’t take the plunge initially is my LHBS owner (now out-of-business) didn’t know anything about all grain...

I never judge my crush by numbers alone. Make a determined sensory evaluation of your grist before you dough in. Are there pieces of uncrushed grain? Are the husks crushed, or merely cracked? How much of the grist has turned into flour? Typically you want a mix of particle sizes, with 20-40% of...

If you’re using fully modified Pils malt (about 99% of what’s commercially available), a protein rest is neither required nor desired. Step mashes are great for brewing Pilsner, but anything between 113-140F is gonna detrimentally affect head retention. I can’t imagine maltodextrin powder would...

The only thing that looks a bit odd is your fermentation schedule. 48F is very low, even for lager yeast — it’s quite possible for the yeast to floc out prematurely at those temperatures. Oxygenation is absolutely vital for lager yeast as well. I usually perform a slow ramp to the diacetyl rest...

Can you provide some more details about your brewing and fermentation process? Specifically, what was your OG, FG, batch size, mash temperature, grainbill, starter size, and fermentation schedule? I’ve used this strain 3 times and gotten 71-75% AA each time, which is consistent with the Wyeast...

It is WLP380. I have it sitting on 16 psi @ 38F and it’s still cloudy as all hell. I’ve used this strain before and didn’t have any trouble getting it to floc in a dunkelweizen. It’s gotta be the rye and the lack of kettle finings that’s throwing me off.

I don’t really like using Warrior anymore, it’s too abrasive and sharp on the palate for me. Columbus is a great choice here, and I’ve seen some cultivars as high as 15% AAU. I’m sure Centennial will work as a bittering addition; I usually save it for whirlpool and dry hop additions, but YMMV...

Just looked it up...it sounds super easy, but just to clarify the steps: 1) pitch all water and brewing salts to mash and sparge vessels 2) add corn sugar and bread yeast to liquor at a rate of 2 g/gal 3) wait 2 hrs for optimal oxygen uptake 4) brew as normal. Am I missing something?