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I do much the same as Jtk78, but use heavy fishing line in place of floss. Couple of stainless steel fixings in the bag to hold it down, and tie the line around the carboy neck. I use a long sock-style bag, so it comes back out easier than it goes in. Bryan

I stopped using my hop spider due to the amount of hop oils that would bind to the material (nylon, I think); washing it in the sink would turn the water bright yellow with lupulin that was not in my beer. Muslin cloth doesn't seem to have that effect, but I've not been able to find a muslin bag...

It is (properly) called football :ban:

I agree - too little action on this otherwise excellent thread So merry goat-mas ya' all

Son: "dad, why did you and mom adopt me" Dad: <plays youtube video> Dad: And that, son, is why you are adopted.

Growlers don't have a good reputation for sealing properly. The swing tops may be better, but for 20 years a proper crown top is the way to go

Long aged beers are a challenge, and oxygen is your enemy. I've tried bottling in many ways, and in my experience (and consistent with advice found in many books) is that bottle conditioning is best as the active yeast will scavenge any residual oxygen. Counterfilling, in my experience, is OK...

So mine is brewed...and its pretty damned good. Mine isn't a "true" radler, in that it is near full-strength with fruit flavour added by the addition of 4 cans of frozen pink lemonaid concentrate. A more traditional radler could be made by making up the lemonaid with water and mixing it 1:1 with...

I'm doing a shandy (Helles + pink grapefruit juice concentrate) for the SWIMBO, and I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to stabilize with meta+sorbate. Between the lager yeast, and the 5-7C temp of my fridge, refermentation is probably going to be an issue otherwise. Thanks Bryan

Did you stabilize the beer to prevent refermentation? Or do you just rely on keeping it cold? To clarify, i mean your first attempt with juice concentrate.

Is your refractometer calibrated (i.e. reads '0' if water is used)? Alternatively, the yeast would be packaged in a low-gravity solution; you may have simply drawn off a top-layer of the low-gravity yeast liquid. Once fermentation is complete you can use a combination of the refractometer...

How about words from an actual professional hop farmer? http://hwcdn.libsyn.com/p/4/9/5/4950b59151d67ded/bbr03-03-16springtimehops.mp3?c_id=11078830&expiration=1463078823&hwt=ebba5e16fde7a6fe884bc3e3ae06eb00 He recommends 3 bines for aggressive strains (cascade, centennial), 4 or more for less...

Light mineral oil is the technical name for it; AFAIK there is no other common name. You could search for a manufacturer/supplier in your area by searching for "pharmaceutical grade", "USP grade" or "cosmetic mineral oil". In reply to CA_Mouse, immersion oil is lens oil for microscopes; you...

I'd be dubious about paraffin oil; its made of lower-weight carbon compounds and may have a solvent effect on the yeast (i.e. kill them).

Cap-seals are generally good for short-term storage; they are prone to failure and even when used properly leak slowly. Keep in mind that those seals have been designed to keep slants from leaking over short periods of time; the era of long-term bacterial/yeast storage on slants (in...

Hot water and elbow grease