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When did you dry hop? I have dry hopped when the airlock was barely bubbling and it still blew out all the aroma. I ended up disappointed. I am speculating but try adding the dry hop when the fermentation is completely done.

Just spend the 100 bucks and buy a $50 chest freezer on Craigslist with a $50 temp controller. I used to be in your shoes. The swamp cooler/ wet T-shirt trick just takes so much work. You can use the chest freezer year round, and the precision took my beer to an entirely better level.

I love 1968 London ESB. Everytime I go out and try something else, I end up back with 1968. It attenuates a bit less than some and I like my English beers a bit on the sweet side. I would also recommend the West Yorksire from Wyeast. It has a lot of interesting character.

If you live in a small town, showing up to a buddy's house with a Dark Mild or a Kolsch is like going to a Super Bowl party with brie and a baguette. Sometimes splitting a case of Busch Light while fishing is enjoyable, even if an APA would be better. My wife rips on me, but I drink Old...

I do a big beer each Spring and let it age until the next winter. For me, Dopplebocks and big Stouts (like Bourbon Barrel Breakfast Stout) are the best. I also do sour beer for the 4th. This year is was a Berliner Weiss. Easter = IPA for me.

I do 24 hours and get very good floc for most yeasts. I did cool the Kolsch yeast for 72 hours and it was still hazy. Just use your best judgement.

I have had that happen with Wyeast Irish Ale, London ESB, Urquell. All those beers turned out great. It sure makes you think that you are doing something wrong, but I wouldn't stress about it. Just decant heavily and you should be fine.

Thanks for all the replies guys. I knew there were a lot of different ways to approach a lambic and I plan to take some of what everyone said. The feedback gave me a good idea of what I am going to do.

I've heard from several people that the only way to get a really remarkable lambic is to harvest and build a yeast starter from the dregs of a commercial example. In the next few weeks I plan to make my first sour beer, a Door County Cherry Lambic, and I need some experienced advice on how to...

I have to say that I am a proponent of shooting for the 70% efficiency mark. That being said, I have found that the best way to consistently hit that mark is to batch sparge. Develop a consistent sparge water temperature and technique. You will hit the mark almost every time (unless brewing a...

So your pH is good. Do you take OG and FG readings? Here are a couple of things I would look at... 1.) Very high efficiency that leads to a thin beer 2.) Sparge technique On sparging, with your problems I might consider a no sparge brewing technique. There was an article about it in the...

Have you been hitting your OG and FG? John Palmer always stresses how important it is to bring the calcium levels to at least 50 ppm. This is essential for conversion. If I were you, to keep it simple, I would add gypsum to bring up the calcium. The Cl to SO ratios can then be tinkered...

There are some extra considerations, but it is totally worth it. Use extract on big beers to cut down on the amount of grain you need to add to a full mashtun (unless you have an extra 20 gallon kettle sitting around). Otherwise, enjoy the all-grain. It is a lot of fun.