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Buy one of those cans of compressed air they sell to clean your computer out. Just a few bucks.

I accidentally added my priming sugar to my batch before taking an F.G. reading. If I added 8.0 oz. of dextrose to a 6 gallon batch and got a reading of 6.5 brix, what would have been my reading pre-dextrose?

I think it's just an attenuation issue but if the calcium chloride doesn't fix it I'll try adding some gypsum for a drier finish. I'm using WLP940 which has been the best performer so far.

My brews are all still too sweet for me and I've done step-mashes, etc. I seem to always get 77-79% attenuation no matter which yeast I use or which mash schedule. The same with different malts. The only thing I can think of is that it has to do with our water here having pretty much nothing...

Sleeping bag from Wal-Mart: $30. In the summertime I don't even lose a degree.

Grape Ape, Honk Kong Fooey, Captain Caveman, Underdog, George of the Jungle, Huckleberry Hound... All future beers?

You can also use a plastic grocery bag to get it out (after it's emptied). I did this once and freaked out but Youtube saved me.

Buy water from your local store for your next batch. That will eliminate your tap water as an issue. Did you have a good taste before bottling and then bad after? Where does it start to taste medicine-y? Taste your beer every step of the way to see where the weird taste pops up. Make some...

I just use whatever the default is and it gets me within a point +/- SG (compared to my hydrometer) so I'm good. I'm not sure my hydrometer is calibrated that accurately so who knows which is actually correct?

All I use anymore is a refractometer. This will get you within a point +/-: http://seanterrill.com/2012/01/06/refractometer-calculator/ I can't read a hydrometer to within a point anyway.

Does it taste like beer?

Grind some up and cook it like a porridge and see how it tastes. Also, don't do what I just said until you look at the Mfr's site to see if they put growth hormones or who knows what else in it. Might turn you into a chicken or something...

Unless you filter it out there is probably enough yeast left to clean up. Let it sit and check it every week or two to see. Mine cleared out in 2 weeks.

You must have oxidized the beer a bit when you dry hopped it. The oxygen creates diacetyl. It will go away with some more time on the yeast. I had a batch that I was ready to toss but it cleared up 100% after a few weeks.

Plus it's fun to say.

Actually you just did an all-grain mash. Congrats, you're an all-grain brewer now. :D

EC-1118 leaves the most flavor for me but the yeasts from Wyeast and White labs are also good if you ferment cool. Matter of taste.

Use half of your wort to make your starters. Now you can brew twice as often (and save on DME!).

OP: BIAB full-volume with no-sparge/no-recirculation (just drain and squeeze) is really easy and I get 82% efficiency just about every time. If I had to do it the hard way I probably wouldn't be making my own beer (too lazy). Thankfully this way is simpler. The only down side is you have to...

You might try doing the cold-crash + gelatin thingy a-la Brulosophy: http://brulosophy.com/tag/gelatin/