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Thank you for the suggestion. Which TC temp probe do you think would work best? As far as I can tell, it's all the same temp probe, only various lengths. My temp TC port is set at 3" off the bottom, and I'd probably need 4" of clearance for any false bottom or basket in order to clear the...

I doubt I'd be willing to go further than step 2. The problem I see, is in order for me to do #1 I have to get a false bottom to keep the bag off the element. If it works, great. But if it doesn't, that's $60 gone. It still might be worth the effort though. Either way I need a better heat...

I'm afraid I'll end up getting very inconsistent temps in the mash. Assuming I stir every ten min with the heating element set at 20% power, I could easily end up with the bottom of the mash at 158 and the top of the mash at 145. That doesn't really accomplish what I'm looking to do though...

This is just exhausting (not your help, that is greatly appreciated, but having to find more patchwork fixes). I'm tired of trying to find various parts at home improvement stores, taping it together and hoping it works. And when it doesn't, throwing something else at it. I'm sorry, but I...

I have. It doesn't matter. Here's the last 6 batches I did: 1. 60 min mash. Start at 156.1. Check at 30 min - 152.4. Check at 60 min - 149.1. (7 degree loss) 2. 60 min mash. Start at 157.1. End at 149.1. Didn't open the kettle. (8 degree loss) 3. 60 min mash. Start at 150. End at 138. Didn't...

Full volume.

Overall the beers have been fine. I haven't been dissatisfied with them. Which is why I've gone as long as I have without further fixing the issue. The problem is I can't fine tune issues that I perceive with the beers. If the beer dried out a little too much, I can't really raise the mash temp...

Covered, yes. And insulated on the bottom. And then wrapped in a sleeping bag. Yes. I put about 1/3rd the grain in and aggressively stir and shake to mash in. Then repeat for the next third. Then repeat for the last third. I then aggressively work the wort for about 2 min or so mixing it up...

Thanks for the heads up. I'll play with the pump to start with, and if I need to order a second ball valve I will. Hopefully I won't though. With many of these things, sometimes there isn't an "answer." I'm not really too worried about maxing out a flow rate during the mash. I'm really just...

My understanding is the Riptide came with a built in flow valve, which should reduce the chance of me causing issues with the pump running full throttle, correct? I also have a ball valve set up in front of the pump. That should work fine, right? (as in I don't need a ball valve behind the pump...

I posted this in the electric brewing section, but didn't get any takers. Maybe it belonged here instead. I currently use a Spike 15g single vessel eBIAB set up with a Nylon Brew-in-a-Bag and a 5,500 ULWD heating element, and a Still Dragon controller. I still have two extra tri-clover ports on...

I currently use a Spike 15g single vessel eBIAB set up with a Nylon Brew-in-a-Bag and a 5,500 ULWD heating element, and a Still Dragon controller. I still have two extra tri-clover ports on the kettle that "haven't been spoken for yet" during the mash (the intention was to have the bottom one...

I'd suggest: 1. Get two tanks. 2. Make sure the size you get matches i) your kegerator, and ii) the supply place you're going to refill them. 3. Lock that system down on air leaks. I had a 2.5 lb tank that came with my kegerator (if I'd do it again, I'd build rather than buy, but that's...

So I may not understand something, but I didn't think the pressure I'm filling at mattered. I thought it was supposed to be serving pressure. Some explanation may be helpful so you don't all think I'm a super dummy. So I carb the keg to serving carbonation, and it's sitting there at 12 psi. The...

I used my Counter Pressure Bottle Filler (https://www.morebeer.com/products/counter-pressure-bottle-filler.html) for the first time last weekend. I have to get used to how it works, as none of the bottles ended up being filled to the proper level, and beer ended up all over the kitchen (a few...

Anytime mid summer would probably be fine. July or August. The further north you go, the later in the season it's ready typically.

No. Processed grocery store honey is brought to a high temp for a short period of time, in order to pasteurize and filter it. Baker's honey is brought to a high temp, sometimes a higher temp than processed grocery store honey, for a longer period of time. The temp and time both have impacts on...

When you remove the wax cappings from the comb, honey gets trapped in it, so to speak. In order to process the wax (and have it be useable) you have to melt it. The wax floats to the top, the honey floats in the "middle" and all the junk sinks to the bottom. But the process requires you to heat...

Honestly, my own. I put a half dozen hives up into the mountains of NC and get maybe a bucket or two of honey a year. Well, not every year. Maybe one out of every three years. The other two I get something, but not much. Most years it's mixed with something else in the area, but not pure...

If that's your plan, go to Lowes, get a food grade bucket, drill a hole in the bottom and install a honey gate...