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I would check out Kai Troester's website, especially this and this for additional reading. If you've taken good notes and measurements of your previous brews, you are already half way there!

Hmm, interesting BrewingRob. I assume the bottle filler tip is on/off? The couple times I've done the "British ale experience" is either by gravity out of a collapsible carboy or using a syringe in a pint to "inject" air and/or force CO2 out. Always got a weird look doing that.

It might be interesting to repeat your process. Take the 2nd runnings (your porter) and continue the hopping and boil as you did before. Take the 1st runnings (RIS) and dilute until the pre-boil gravity is the same as the 2nd runnings and continue the same. Now you'll have two beers to compare...

I use a 2 gallon cooler for 1 gallon batches and cut a styrofoam circle to rest on top of the mash inside the cooler. You could wrap the styrofoam in something to keep wort from getting in and spoiling later if you want to reuse it or to help get a snugger fit. From what I remember I still had a...

I thought this was pretty close or spot on. The recipe is the same that is found in the book Brewing Classic Styles. The White Labs' Platinum strain wlp037 is supposedly from Samuel Smith and is coming out this fall/winter I believe. The recipe I have listed is 1.5 gallons so be sure to scale up...

JonGrafto, congrats on the fermentation and the good nose on your daughter! I've got the dregs myself but haven't stepped it up yet. I wouldn't have guessed Wisconsinite used Cascades, or enough of them for a slight aromatic presence. Will be interesting if they come through with the FWH though...

I wouldn't worry about the haze, mine took a while to clear up. I actually thought it tasted better younger than when it did clear (something dropped out)...duh. But hey, thanks for the comparison, looks tasty! What differences do you pick up from the NZ Cascade from the American-grown version?

Are these your dry hops, and if so, what's your reasoning behind this, better extraction?

I don't have first hand experience with it, but the acid rest may need a few hours to change the pH significantly (see Palmer; http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter14-2.html). Without knowing your mash pH, it's tough to say. I certainly don't want to complicate matters. I have used acid malt...

I recently brewed up two Marzens using the Hochkurz method. I will state that these were my first two decoctions and both beers are still lagering for approximately 2 months now. Both had the same mash schedule and were fermented using Wyeast 2124. I think I targeted just under 400 billion cells...

Well, I used Nottingham and that chews through most beers for me, so I ended up mashing higher than 148F. In fact, I must have been drinking while brewing and it was 158F instead. I've always mashed higher than normal when using attenuative strains such as Nottingham, US-05, 1056, 001, etc. In...

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Yes, I was at the Baron's meeting but there were too many single-hop beers to try out...never did get to try them all. Anyways, I should try and culture up KW myself before I take some from you, thank you for the offer. Yeast strain probably has the greatest effect on the amount of cloves and I...

I take it that, as brewed, the Kellerweis and 380 beat out 3068 in terms of cloves? I'm about to brew my weizens for the year and I really like your documentation of your experiments. I may have to culture up some KW or look out for the Wisconsite strain coming soon from Lakefront and Jeremy...

I'd do a gravity check. Taste your beer as it comes along, no harm in that. Just be sanitary about it. If you are worried about stirring up what's settled, I'd bring it out and let sit for a day or two. You'll be racking to a secondary and leaving it for another several weeks, so anything that...

I have to believe that isomerization is slower after flameout/during the whirlpool, but it still happens. It's aided by boiling as insoluble alpha acids become solubilized by the convection currents of boiling and then isomerized (made bitter) by the heat and pH. I would say removing the kettle...

Just an update a month from brewday. Concerns regarding a higher FG have vanished at least in my opinion. Racking to add dryhops may have restarted a small fermentation (didn't take a final reading). That said, it's been in the keg for at least a week now (without the 2nd dryhopping) and I am...

If you cannot cold crash or reduce temperature in any way, I would add your last addition at your current temps and leave to sit for an additional 5 days before you bottle. The cold crash helps remove the hop debris and yeast, helps prevent chill haze and may provide a different dry hop...

Digging up an old one, but I brewed this about 10 days ago. I must have gotten my notes switched up as I mashed this one at 158-160F and NOT 148F. Along with the 16% or so crystal malt, I went from 1.052 to 1.020 in about 4 days with dry Nottingham. I'll admit that my fermentation control was...

I recently made my first lager/Oktoberfest. I may have underpitched mine but I did sequential 0.5L/1.5L starters with a single vial of 2124. Fermentation began well within 24 hours. After a week of fermentation at 50-54F, I nearly reached final gravity (as determined by a fast-ferment test that...