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I understand that people will always disagree about the best practices, but I can only go on what I've researched and visually experienced with bottling. I bottle brews on average about twice a week, sometimes more. Because I brew a ton of 1 gal batches. Priming sugar addition I used to do prior...

Just push the plunger towards the side of the neck of the bottle or tilt the bottle in your hand and depress the plunger toward the side of the neck of the bottle, you can fill it to the brim that way, if you wanted. Obviously only necessary to stop at 1/4 to 1/2 inch

No bottle bombs, same level of carbonation. I don't exactly know the science behind it, but I read an article that really emphasized it because only so much oxygen is used by the yeast during conditioning, the leftover begins oxidation. Limiting this variable has improved my ipa's drastically...

As long as your bottling practices are nice and gentle, don't worry at all about the last part of the batch in the bottling bucket getting more oxidized than the rest. Just work very hard to avoid any splashing at all!!! Fill the bottles to within a half to quarter inch, trust me on that. Set...

I'm gonna crack another bottle today and see if anything has changed. I'm fairly certain sanitation isn't an issue. Different equipment, and this is at bottling day when first noticed so bottling equipment can be ruled out. Mosaic is only new variable common to both.

I am not sure at this point. The first reply states it's mosaic. You others claim it's not the hops/breed of hops. But like I've said, I have definitely experienced other hops that had really strong different aromas that change into the more typical hop aromas after bottle conditioning. I...

My last couple of ipa's included mosaic hops, both at flameout and dry hopped. One was solely mosaic, the other a blend of 3 hops. Come bottling day, these brews did not smell like many of my other ipa's. And the taste was very odd too. Kind of sour/bubblegum. Especially the one with much more...

I've dealt with similar issues for 2 years. I finally have bottled some delicious ipa's that have lasted 2 months in the bottle with great aroma and taste. Bottling wand tube length I feel is irrelevant. I simply keep track of the first bottle because of the rush of liquid, obviously you'll get...

Well it seems fully carbed, not excessively, but only after 1 week, its a strange taste, sour and bubblegum at the same time

I brewed an ipa, small 1 g batch a few weeks ago. When I bottled it, it had a very different taste to it that was obviously strange, somewhat sour I suppose. Now a week and a half following bottling day, the beer has the same taste that I explored with the first bottle. It's slightly sour, but...

I used a hydrometer. The OG was 1.096 and I pitched 150 billion cells wothout a starter. My lhbs confirmed I should have made a starter, it took 52 hours to begin fermentation. As I stated, I'm sure I underpitched. Issue now is whether I can save these bottles or are they getting dumped.

Or save it for a bigger beer, and get a new bag with the correct amounts, if you brew often enough

I brewed a heavy IPA a few weeks back. I know that I underpitched, and ended up with a FG of 1.030, far from where I wanted. I assumed it was a stall. I bottled and hoped for the best. Maybe that was a mistake. But I have not had any bottles carb up at all. Is this because the yeast died...

Is it really avoiding infection by using a blowoff tube? Can't the blowoff vessel become infected from being exposed to air and sometimes being introduced with yeast and beer and extra stuff from the fermenter? And then, what is preventing that from traveling through the blowoff tube...

Good luck man! If I didn't already have a business I'd probably consider doing the same thing, working with something you really enjoy

You have tried both ways? I still need more pb flavor in my brews and the water mix doesn't provide it, curious to go the vodka route. What ratio? When do you add it?

Be extremely, extremely gentle in racking, adding priming sugar, and using bottling wand. Also - fill your bottles to 1/4" of headspace. 1/2" for big bottles or quarts. And place caps on bottle for 20 minutes, then cap securely, this allows o2 to escape, by letting co2 to start pushing it out...

Special b may give you a little more prune/raisin than you desire, maybe consider simpsons coffee malt?

The instructions to make peanut butter from pb2 are to dissolve in water, I don't know any other way to make it into the wortand add foavor besides your recommendation or through diluting in water. I wish pb2 was fat free entirely, the fat kills any head

I'm not sure, I've had decent results with dilluting it in more water to get a runny mixture that I add slowly to the kettle. But I'd also be interested in the method you mentioned, especially if it does anything to help with the fat content