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How reliable are pressure relief valves? I'm considering doing a closed fermentation between a glass carboy and a keg with one attached as a spunding valve? My main concern is malfunction and having a carboy explode

So if there is no flow (equilibrium) then the ball stays open?

If I'm using a manifold in my keezer to gas up 5 kegs, please explain how gas (oxygen) can't get from one keg to another? I get it that most manifolds are made with ball check valves, however how does the ball check valve really operate? Under equilibrium pressure from the keg side and the tank...

What about 1/4" PEX tubing?

Wow, small world. But isn't the gas side less likely to allow oxygen ingress? And what about this other poster saying that the thicker walled vinyl could help? Is that possible?

Funny, I that's the article that started my new quest. I've been fighting oxidation for a while now, just started disconnecting my beer lines unless being used. But now I want an easier solution. Is the shutoff best idea in your opinion?

So from more of what I have researched, vinyl tubing is letting lots of oxygen enter my beer in the beer line (and the gas line, but supposedly less there) From my own limited knowledge, I can assume gas in a liquid (beer line) will eventually make its way down the dip tube and into the beer in...

Well those temps are based on keeping the fridge side around 67 and I could easily drop that down to 65 or 64, which brings me to probably 44 to 54 on the freezer side

I have a large fridge that has a freezer side and a fridge side. I currently use the fridge side for all my ales and stouts and such. But I am interested in doing some lagering using the freezer side. My question is based on the temperature fluctuations of the freezer side due to the temp...

I don't do the purging of headspace and tubing the way you describe here but I am going to try this, it sounds right. Also, I do not cold crash for the oxygen reasons, but I am going to cut my gas tube to allow for letting all the air out of the keg. Between those 2 things I should be...

I have been kegging for about a year. I started doing closed transfers on my ipas about a few months ago. My question is what is the absolute best method for doing a closed transfer to eliminate as much oxygen as possible? I am nearly certain I am oxidizing my ipas as I get sherry type...

Agreed, we've become a country that sues anyone for anything. All mistakes, accidental or intentional, are someone else's fault lol Regarding the beer quantity, definitely rather have too much beer than not enough. You can always drink the rest later.

Nice! Thank you!

Any thoughts on getting a recipe for this Belgian IPA? All I know is maybe where to shoot for the SRM and 50 IBUs using Simcoe as a dry hop. Any more input or ideas would be much appreciated!

I used to do this, then I realized that people practically give away old fridges online, and temp controllers you can find as cheap as 15$. As long as you have a space for it, might be time to upgrade.

When it's packed full of hops I gently squeeze it a little at a time under a jet of water so the clumps I loosen get washed out as I go. Then I use a small 1" diameter bottle brush to scrub the inside once all hops are out.

Carbed now lol

I've been using these for the past year or so. I have 4 of them in different custom sizes from the guy that makes em. I have no issues with them except 2 things: limited amount you can hop, and cleaning them takes a bit of time.

I like this. I've been considering how to quick carb or have kegs ready to serve asap. And it's an excuse to brew more.

So I decided on dunking the keg in a full bath to check for leaks...sure enough had 2 more leaks out of the PRV and poppet of the gas post. Disassembled and lubed like crazy, we'll see...