Search results

I've broken 2 in 3 years. One rolled off the counter and the other was bizarre. I was squeezing the sleeve to pull out the hydrometer and was squeezing the part with the bulb in it, so when I pulled the sleeve apart the hydromter bulb was between my thumb and forefinger...anyway it broke.

I made a Belgian blonde (not really to style) with this yeast on 2/1/2015 -- 1.055 ish. I kegged on 2/14 to cold condition for two weeks. I am having trouble getting it to flocculate (I added 7g of Gypsum and 5g of Calcium Chloride so its not a calcium issue) and fermented side by side with a...

It might not be explicitly sarcastic, but I think someone taking the time to take a picture in a store and asking advise of others on whether they should do something extremely petty and illegal, implies sarcasm. Those who do these things are usually quite dishonest and secretive about their...

I completely understood the sarcasm, right off the bat. This whole thread brightened my day. I actually got a chuckle out of the trashcan. There are these really nice computer monitors at my work, should I steal them? I could use them for HBT?

You might want to try running your grain through the mill at your homebrew shop twice. Double crushing as some call it. I've never done it, as I have my own malt mill dialed in, but this might save you some headache and yield better efficiency. I did some simple math and figured out that...

Filter your water and get a water report from Ward Labs: https://producers.wardlab.com/BrewersKitOrder.php Doing these two things are relatively cheap and help give you similar tools to what the pro's have to start making great beer. 95% of Beer is water, make sure you know what you are...

It is awesome. Very solid 304 Stainless w/ a TriClad bottom. I got it with the blichman thermometer and ball valve set up. I did drop the lid from a height and got a slight ding in it, but I've been pretty rough on the kettle and It barely has a scratch and has no dents. I brewed 140 gallons...

I brew with a 15g Megapot 1.2 and 70qt coleman xtreme cooler. I batch sparge and get around 80% mash efficiency. I would say batch sparging assuming everything goes smooth only takes an additional 15-20 minutes. It takes about 5 minutes to run the sparge water into the mashtun, I stir it up...

That's high for dry and liquid. They don't call it tax-a-chussets for nothing.

OPINION! Some of the newer dry beer yeasts are expensive, but the ones that have been around for a while are quite cheap. S-05, S-04, Windsor, Etc are all around 1.99 to 2.99 a sachet of 11 grams of yeast. Aren't wine yeasts usually sold in 5.5 gram or 6 gram sachets? So, double the amount of...

I think you could use in any wheat beer in place of torrified wheat or wheat berries. Just give it a shot! I'd stick with the <= 5%

Maybe others with more experience can chime in but I think "best practices" for belgian yeasts are to let them free rise. According to white labs the optimum temp for this yeast is 66-72. I would try and start fermentation as close to 66 as you can get it and let it free rise for the next few...

I think your beer will be fine, to tell you the truth. Maybe a little less bitter than you intended it to be, but not that much. The Hops at "flameout" will only add to the aroma and flavor. I would dry hop as planned and I think you will end up with a fine IPA. I have seen recipes for...

fermcapS - 1 drop per gallon. I always put a drop in my starters too. A) It really helps in the boil B) It doesn't help as much consistently in fermentation, but more times than not and keeps things at bay. C) Better Bottles with rubber stoppers and blow-off tube are an easy equipment...

oops

169 Sounds like a normal strike temperature to hit low 150's for mash temp. Make sure you have the box checked for "drain mashtun before adding sparge water"

It will increase your FG to some extent given no other variables change. You might have to do that calculation on your own and come up with some estimates. I don't think BeerSmith does this calculation for you. Here is a good article...

Just FYI -- this is exactly what my dry hopped beers look like a few days after adding a few ounces of dry hop pellets. They swell up, expand into a green sludge that covers the top of the wort, then they take a week to sink to the bottom. When you rack, rack from the middle, in between...

How does batch sparging require lifting hot water, while fly sparging does not? Are you assuming those who batch sparge don't have pumps or don't elevate their hot liquor tank? Just curious.

I think this is personal preference. I batch sparge because its quicker and leaves less room to make a mistake. It also requires less equipment.