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early in the boil.

just like another poster mentioned my experience with summit is to use it early to avoid the onion. I have used it in combination with simcoe, amarrillo, and chinook and it seems to play very nice with these hops.

I don't know were this 1,2,3 rule started but its a bunch of crap. There is no time table for brewing, when the fermentation is done its done it might be done in a couple days it could be a couple weeks, no set timetable. Same with carbing in bottles sometimes it takes a couple weeks sometimes...

cograts on the first brew. You did not mention the yeast strain. but in general for most ales I ferment around 65f.

you could do that then make up the other 5 gallons with extract just allow for the hop utilization loss of adding the 5 gallon of extract. If done this way you only need to bring the extract to a boil for 10 minutes or so, since you won't be adding hops to the extract portion.

don't know your batch size or target gravity but for general thinking use a high alfa acid hop at 60 (warrior with the choices you list). Then hop burst with cenntenial or and cascades ( the most citrus hops you listed) at 20,15,10,5 and flame out.

+1 when I bottled years ago this was about my average time frame too.

your recipe was calculated for 5 gal. you had an extra 1/2 gallon not accounted for in the recipe so the beer was diluted by an extra 1/2 gal. of water not boiled off.

good catch homebrewdad, I always assume kegging I have not bottled a beer in years. ;) my bad.

well you can account for some of the loss of efficiency to the extra 1/2 gal of volume above your intended 5 gals. The crush could account for some of the rest.

I hope you don't intend to pitch and ferment a lager at 65f. A more appropriated temp would be around 50F.

If top off water was not used in a full boil what was your intended into fermenter volume? and what was your actual volume into fermenter?

if you need to go cheaper aluminum pots work fine, and they have the advantage of less weight, are easier to drill and as already mentioned cheaper. The down side is you need to condition them before use and are easier to dent.

If you order a all grain kit you can have the grains crushed for ya from the supplier.

for a fast turnaround a low gravity bitter, blonde or pale ale would fit your time frame.

bringing the temp up slow for a d-rest when 75% or so of fermentation is complete is fine. But a D-rest is not necessarily if you pitch your yeast at or below your intended ferm temp, and you pitch enough yeast. Just remember lagers need twice as much yeast as ales do,

If ya don't have the $$$ for brew software you can download brew mate its a free program that works well. In the future as money comes available you can always purchase another brew program that may be more to your liking.

If you try to drill through the freezer you will hit the coils that are in the sides and make your freezer a huge piece of junk suitable only as a anchor. You can attach the wood to the freezer with caulking, when dry the stuff holds well. Others have used liquid nails.

I think a 66L cooler would be fine for 5 gal batches. Just preheat the mash tun and cover the mash tun with a heavy blanket to hold the heat in.

with pils malt you will want to do a 90 min boil to drive off DMS so allow for the extra boil off volume