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teflon tape is fine, but start the wrap of tape one thread back from the end. You don't want any tape pieces breaking off and clogging your regulator. If its a flare nut teflon tape is not used.

I have no idea what your talking about, I use a braid and have never had a stuck sparge. I have no problems hitting my mash temps and when you have hit 85% efficiency then I'll consider BIAB. I have no issues with people that prefer BIAB, but we are all different and I don't attack your method...

yep, we all have our own ways to do things and in the end we all seem to make beer.:mug:

I totally agree with you Yooper. I like to use crystal 10 and 20 with vienna. sometimes I'll sub the vienna for munich 1 The layering creates a more complex malt profile.

nice build revvy, very nicely done.

is your air conditioner digital? Mine was and b/c I could not set the temp below 60f I had to stick the sensor from the AC out side of it so the ac thought the conditioned space was above 60. And used a johnson controller to turn the compressor on and off.

you will also find that the fuller the kegerator the less it will cycle. All the cold kegs have considerable mass and helps to keep the temps from changing rapidly.

Its perfectly fine to open the bucket lid. The bogie man won't jump out and get you:D.

If the fermentation was completed in the primary then its probably co2 coming out of solution. That is assuming you finished the fermentation in the primary. Did you get the same hydo reading over a 3 day period?

once you open the valve you create a siphon it will continue to flow as long as you leave the valve open. You can not how ever get the beer to flow if the wort level is below the top of the dip tube. So its important to not close the valve when the beer gets below the dip tube b/c there will be...

looks good. I did the same thing a few years ago before I got a freezer. That air conditioner will do a fine job.

if you decide to dry hop in the keg, I would recommend you use a hop sack the hops can sometimes clog the dip tube. Don't ask me how I know this.:(

you can't judge fermentation from the air lock you need to check with a hydrometer and get the same reading over three days. If the fermentation was not complete then yes it was too early.

I tend to error on the side of over pitching than under pitching. Since your basically making and educated guess on the viability of your liquid yeast and the growth in the starter.

went to a picnic and brought a keg of my lager. There was 5 other commercial beers there my keg kicked in 45 minutes and all the other coolers were still full. No one needs to say a thing the complement was in the drinking:rockin:.

for the very first brewing of any first recipe I usually will be within +-5 points. After I have data on that recipe I make efficiency corrections for that beer and expect to be within 2-3 points of my target SG and FG. Consistency is very important to me b/c if I brew a batch I don't want any...

its an ale so just let it condition for a couple weeks at its fermentation temp. then package.

There is a very good chance that pitching new yeast won't help. Pitching new yeast that has not had time to adapt to the alcohol will possibly just put the new yeast to go dormant. Just leave it alone and wait it out. Your beer was way underpitched you really do need a starter or more vials of...

the reason your gravity between your pre boil and post boil went up is because you had boil off. you probably boiled off a gallon of liquid and left the sugars in the boil pot, B/C the sugar is denser the gravity goes up. hops does not change the gravity.

as much as I don't like the Pats I have to agree that they will have a shot at undefeated. Their schedule is ranked as the easiest in the NFL and they have done well in the off season shoring up the defense. A lot of things are lining up for them this year to make a hell of a run.