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+1 that was my point too. If you don't want to use a pump, gravity can do all your transfering, you just need to set up your system to let gravity be your pump.

if I was setting up a new system I would go with what is typicaly used as the defalt settings on most recipe calculators of 75% and then adjust after aquired data.

It depends on the gravity of the beer. smaller beers I get 80-85%. on big grain bills efficiency drops to high 60's to high 70's. Thats why hydro checks are important, so after brewing a recipe for the first time I can adjust the grain bill to get my intended finish gravity consistently...

I built my system to avoid the PITA pumps. I work with pumps for a living and having to prime and clean them does not make them easier or efficient. You can build your system to not use one. I have a batch sparge rig. Its set up with the hlt on the top shelf the mash tun on the middle shelf and...

magnum it can be used to bitter almost any style. smooth alpha acids with high IBU, I use more than a pound of the stuff for bittering a year, it just seems to go with anything. Very under appreciated.

good you agree, I sure will report back.

revvy, your recipe looks nice. I usually don't like to alter lager recipes but I have all the ingredients for this vienna except the haller, what do you think of subing in tettnanger? I have 3/4 pound of this and since its a good german hop being utilized at 60 min as a bittering addition...

brewmate is a free recipe program works well.

I have a sanyo too if its like mine you have refrigerant lines in the sides and top. Check to see if there is a drain hole on the bottom of the frig. You can run your co2 line through that.

more time in primary letting the yeast clean up after itself will only improve your beer. If it was my beer I would not rack for another week or 2. If its a ale I would even forget the secondary stage, the extra time in primary will help clear the beer.

for grain absorbtion figure 1 pint per pound of grain.

I have heard it could add tannins. But from my experience its not true. I mash in up to 2qt/lb and never had any issues. I shoot for equal amount into the kettle from my first and second runnings to maximize efficiency. brew in the bag brewers mash in at much higher ratios with out issues.

168 is what I shoot for. You don't want to sparge higher than 170f.

This is a question of do you want the best beer possible or just want decent beer? If your fanatical like me and want the best beer possible I always control my temps from pitching yeast to in the keg (or bottle). Its true that the first few days are the most important, but if you took the time...

really? victory prima pils is internationaly known as one of the greatest pils avaliable anywere. You must be getting old beer samples.

you will need a double regulator b/c soda needs to be carbed at a much higher pressure than beer.

nice, I like the cabinet door.

generally wheat is the major culprit causing stuck sparges. I never had a issue with any other grains. If it was my system I would try using a braid or bazooka and see if that works better for you. I have never had a stuck sprarge using a braid. and I do 10 and 15 gal batches so I'm using large...

,I think most use a chest freezer with a temp controller. Freezers are more energy efficient and have more floor space for more kegs. If your looking at new, freezers are cheaper too.

:eek: I guess every ones taste buds are different.