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As others have said the Basic kit from all is about the same.. Better is if you can substitute items in the kit (say a second Fermentation bucket instead of the 5gal glass carboy.. Or a 2 piece set of lo and high scale hydrometers swapped for the triple scale version most kits come with.. or...

You can as long as you can see the hydrometer at the level needed for a reading... No way I could do that with 5.10 gal beer in a 6.8gal ferm bucket down inside my ferm chamber. Many use a beer thief.. if you have a large hole and stopper in the lid for the air lock, pop out the air lock and...

The sink Stainless Steel drain ring is the way to go in my opinion.. Bought new for $8.. I cut the bottom section off using my lathe, but it can be done with many other hand tools or a dremel. Drill three holes, use stainless steel all thread or carriage bolts, one SS worm gear clamp and a...

http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/belgian-tripel-extract-kit.html http://www.austinhomebrew.com/product_info.php?cPath=178_452_42_164&products_id=391 http://www.midwestsupplies.com/belgian-tripel-kit.html Id bet most every company has one, as well as your local HBS if you were to ask them...

Welcome from CENTEX... Brewing can be all consuming, or an at distance afterthought, or anywhere inbetween.. completely your choice. And no foul no harm in starting with mixing pre hopped wort and water/ yeast, and deciding later to try Extract and steeping grains, or going for an All...

I would not try it with that little room, knowing how much hot brake or foaming I get when doing hop additions to my wort... If I tried that in your pot set up..I'd have wort all over the place... If it works for others, great...... just not worth the hassle to me.. your milage may vary

Yeast is happiest in a range set by the manufacturer Within that range, flavors from that yeast in different recipes can be influenced by where in the range you ferment at. What yeast are we talking about here? What is the beer being brewed? What is the temp of the wort now? And are you...

Three SG reads the same over 5 days (test wait a day, Test, wait a day TEST) All three readings the same, it's done fermenting.. could it benefit from sitting on the yeast a bit longer, many say yes, and very few see harm in doing so for up to 3 or so months. When in doubt WAIT.. longer is...

Re hydrating makes sense.. And I have started doing it more often than not. But I think Temp of wort when pitching, temp of wort during fermentation is a bigger deal.. and frankly, in 23 batches now since last June.. most of those were pitched with dry yeast, fermented fine and tasted great.

Belle Sasion dry yeast workd for my last Sasion http://www.danstaryeast.com/system/files/pdfs/tds-belle-saison-english_0.pdf?download=1 The batch before that I used Wyeast 3711 French Saison... which worked well also. But I had a much different recipe,, 2 lbs Pilsner Malt (2-row) 1.50 lbs...

You can use most any sugar to prime with. Use one of the calculators http://www.northernbrewer.com/priming-sugar-calculator/ or http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html or another and select the beer style (or the level of CO2 you want in your beer), temp of the beer, amount of beer to...

Well darn,, there was not a recipe worth of grain, hops and DME in that box.... there was TWO 5 gal worth... :ban: And a 5gal short keg converted to ball lock, and new pressure release lid (I needed a pin lock keg for it's lower height , but all my lines and other kegs are ball lock, hence the...

Mostly it seems, it comes down to size of your equipment :D No no no.. the beer equipment..:ban: 5gal boil needs a 6.5 or larger size pot (or for me 6.25 gal boil so I end with 5 gal of wort post boil volume, means an 8 or 10 gal pot)... most new extract brewers I read about start with a...

Having great results lately with adding 1/3 DME at initial boil 2/3 just before my 15min additions (hops, irish moss) Having brewed two back to back batches now the only difference was all DME at beginning, and my 1/3 - 2/3 way.. The only change we noticed was color being darker for the all in way.

Whose common practice?

The instructions are dodgy at best http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/acatalog/John_bull.pdf It's a pre hopped LME just add water and sugar, yeast and time kit. So how much water you added (kit instructions suggests it's an option for "experienced" brewers to decide) how well you mixed it up...

Not sure yet.... but as I was brewing this morning along with making cinnamon rolls for the family .. I was asked if I used all my brew water???? Saying yes.. I got a look of concern and my boy jumped in his truck to go to the store...:D .......hummm, wonder whats in that box over >>>>>...

DME, in boiling wort dissolves just fine :mug:.. or at least it has in the last 22 batches I've brewed.... to include the one on my burner right now... just added 7lb of DME to 5gal of rolling boil wort that already had 3lb of DME dissolved in it.. No excessive foaming, few clumps that...

I have two large 2 QT pryex glass measuring cups.. they each can hold 4lb of DME.. When it's time I pour DME into the boil... of 3lb about 2/3 makes it out of the cup and wisked into the boil.. the other 1/3 is stuck to the cup.. then dunk the cup in the boiling wart and rinse away remaining...

It takes more than a week when i force Carb in a Keg to get a decent result...When I bottle I let them sit 3 weeks before I put one in a fridge for 2 days.. As for the mix results... as stated above... Not long enough, not mixed well enough (though I do the same, priming sugar in the bottling...