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You can never have too much citrus hops, my last beer was an APA with Chinook at 60 mins, Cascade at 15 mins and then Amarillo & cascade at 1 min. Turned out to be one of my best beers ever. Full recipe here: http://riverroadbrewery.blogspot.com/2010/04/recipe-hippity-hop-pale-ale.html

Welcome to the site and good luck with your first AG brew :mug:

The islands are referred to as the British Isles, where as the UK is a country. Drogheda is in the Republic of Ireland. :cross: In relation to good beer, if you get down to Dublin the two best bars for beer selection are the Porterhouse Central and the Bull & Castle. If you can't get to Dublin...

yes remove the airlock when moving them and then replace (the danger if you leave it is is that the liquid would be sucked into your ferementer when you moved it), temp should not be a problem for only a day.

OK, first thing is that you should really carbonate the beer in the fridge and not at room temp. The reason for this is that CO2 is absorbed into cold liquid faster than warm liguid. When I force carbonate my beers they get 2 days in the fridge to get the temp down and then 3-4 days at 15psi and...

Depends if you are making extract or all grain. Not sure what equipment you have for wine-making but if you are making extract (with steeping grains), you will need a large stock pot (4 gallons), a fermenter, grain bag, hydrometer, airlock, capper, bottles and caps. If you want to make...

I chill my keg for 2 days and then force carb at 14-15psi for 3-4 days and then set to 10psi to serve. This gives a light level of carbonation I am happy with. Some people think that it carbs the beer faster because the CO2 is pumped into the bottom of the keg, this assumption is wrong. Also...

If they are the same bottles that Grolsch use in Ireland then there should be a rubber O-ring, take this off and wash and sanitise (bottle, swing top and o-ring) as per usual and then re-fit the O-ring to he swing top. The only thing to be careful of is that they are green bottles so make sure...

You have two options, you can water it down in Primary. Work out how much water you need to add to get it down to your original expected OG. Boil the water, let it cool, add it to your fermenter and gently stir with a sanitised spoon. If you are usin a secondary you could do the same, but just...

You could go for a Weissbier, this is meant to be drunk young and so could be ideal.

Bank holiday in Ireland this weekend and so I am hoping to brew a version of O'Flainnegain's Standard Stout (AG)

Congratulations, there is nothing like tasting that first beer that you brew and being surprised that it taste like beer :mug:

It should probably drop by 0-2 points, although it may have finished fermenting, as you transfer to secondary you stir the yeast up a bit and so it will probably start feeding if there are any sugars left that it can break down.

You won't need that much. If you want to use dried wheat extract in place of the pale wheat, you need about 1.6 Lbs. This will give you the 12 gravity points that BeerTools says you should get from the 2.5lbs of grain.

Yep all into one is fine. I use a large milk carton, half filled with star san solution.

hydrometer readings are very important. They will tell you exactly what's happening with your brew. For example if you were not to sample and got a stuck fermentation and just bottled at 2-2.5 weeks there is the possibility that you wold end up with a bad brew at least and bottle bombs at worst...

looks a nice set-up, and great to have hit your OG first time around.

great tip, I currently use a type of BIAB system, will test this on my next brew.

I had the same result when I first tested my mash tun. The addition of grain makes all the difference. When I tested mine with just water it dropped 5-6c, when grist was added, it only lost 1c over the course of 60 minutes. Don't worry it will work fine when you do your mash.

Grolsch and Flensburger are two beers we get quite easily in Ireland and they use the flip-tops