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Sounds great, probably a combination of all three factors gave you the "perfect" fermentation conditions. Hoppy!, sounds great.

before you use up your starter, have you tried rousing the yeast. Use a sanitised spoon and gently give it a stir to bring some of the yeast that may have fallen out back into suspension. Leave for a couple of days and test again.

I love kegging but I make 25 litre batches and so have enough to fill a corny and to bottle about 12 or 13 bottles. Great to have the bottles for giving away or bringing to tastings.

APA will be ready very quickly, ferment for 1 week, secondary for 1 week and then force carb. Here is a recipe I did recently that was ready very fast: http://riverroadbrewery.blogspot.com/2010/04/recipe-hippity-hop-pale-ale.html

It will not be finished at 1021. You would still expect the fermentation to bring down the gravity to your original estimate, however due to the fact that you did not top up the beer will turn out quite a bit stronger than you intended. I have no experience with topping up after fermentation...

Welcome Rhea, any questions just fire away, the guys on here are always very helpful.

+1 to this. Instead of messing with this batch just accept it is going to have a lower ABV and for subsequent brews have a couple of bags of DME on hand to adjust if needs be.

76% is a good efficiency with BIAB, however you can get higher, a bit of practice and refining your process and you should get it over 80%. Well done.

60 F is a little on the low side and so your yeast is probably struggling to perform at that temperature. probably should aim for about 65-68 F.

I too usually dry hop for 5-7 days, the danger if you leave for a lot longer is that you get a grassy flavour from the hops in the fininshed beer, some people want this in their beer, but personally I am not a big fan of it.

I would have to say that you should not have skipped the late additions. My usual schedule for an APA is 60m, 15m, 1m and dry hop for 5-7 days after primary is complete. Either way you do not need to sanitise the hops, however if you are using a hop sock or tea ball then you would need to...

If the conditions are right the bulk of the fermentation should probably happen in the first 72 hours, then the yeasts start to clean up after themselves as revvy said. Another week should see the job done. I have a stout that dropped from 1047 to 1016 in three days, plan is now to keg mid next...

I have had a full ferment in two days, but never one. I would guess that the high fermentation temp coupled with the starter led to a very rapid initial fermentation. However I would say that secondary fermentation is now taking place. Not sure if it would have been able to chew through all that...

If you just want to use secondary to clear your beer then it should really be done at lower temperatures. The cool temperatures allows the yeast and suspended proteins to clump together and fall out of suspension.

You should not really be squeeaing the grains and draining into your kettle. The sparge is for washing the grains, by squeezing all of the liquid out of the grains it is very likely that you are extracting tannins out of the grains which will have a detremental effect on your final brew. If I...

Ok first this is that this will cause no problems with your batch, at that temperature the yeast will just have become a bit sluggish but will be in no way damaged. Raise the temperature back up to 65-70 and give it at least two days. You should then start to see activity. There is absolutely no...

I have heard from people who have used DIY bottling from a keg solutions that they have found bottles 6 months after bottling that still tasted great. I think the key is to make sure that there is no oxygen present. If you can achieve this then they should be good for at least 3-4 months.

My favourite style is an APA and for me the best hops combo is: Chinook @ 60 mins Cascade @ 15 mins Cascade & Amarillo @ 1m Nice citrussy hit up front and then a nice smooth bitterness in the background :rockin:

I think what he is asking is about the condition time needed when kegging. If this is what you mean, the keg should not need the same length of conditioning as the bottled beer. If you are force carbing you can drink after one week. If naturally carbonating it would probably need at least two...

Should be no problem, the yeast in essence will have just gone into 'hibernation', should be fine once the temp gets up.