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Not really sure what it has to do with electric brewing either? You may get more responses if you post in the correct sub-forum. Good luck! Kal

Exactly. We've sold 100's of control panels over the last 6 years (both kits and pre-assembled) and I don't remember any cases of having to replace SSRs. Many of these are to commercial establishments running the panels pretty much every day. Kal

Love the commercial sliding doors! Were they original in the barn or did you add them after? You don't usually see something like that in a barn! Kal

+1 to waiting it out. I made a 1.100 RIS a couple of months or so ago with US-05 and it went something like this: Sep 28, 2016 (5PM): Wort created. 1.100 (original gravity) Sep 28, 2016 (10PM): Wort chilled to 64F & aerated, hydrated 60g US-05 and pitched (into ~11 gallons). Fermenting...

Never be afraid to buy a more expensive/quality product. Buying the cheapest SSR you can find on eBay greatly increases the changes that you'll be replacing it more than once which doesn't really save you money. Buy once, cry once! Kal

Two buckets gives you the flexibility to do split batches too (different yeasts/temps/dry hops/etc). Kal

What sort of beers did they brew? What you wanting to replicate? Keep in mind too that ingredients have changed a lot over time so brewing historical beers is often problematic. Back then they may have used a form of less modified malt requiring a more complex step mash (not single infusion)...

Gee, I wonder what you could be referring to? :rolleyes: Martin, I know you don't mean any harm, but please understand that most people on forums consider competition posting that someone's product is "not good" in their official thread is generally considered poor taste. Kal

Then I'd recommend adding CaCl2 as adding more Ca is better in most cases than adding more Sodium (Na) from adding NaCl. Not to speak for the author of EzWaterCalc, but NaCl was removed because generally speaking Sodium (Na) is something we want to keep low. Ka

Based on the fact that he used spacers, I would say he used porcelain or ceramic tiles, similar to what you'd see in many kitchens or bathrooms (on the wall or floor). FWIW, porcelain is a denser, less porous and harder option that offers greater stain and water resistance than ceramic. While...

You're welcome! Glad to hear you've found the website helpful! Kal

Depends on your setup. With my control panel panel design, most of it is redundant, on purpose: The Boil and HLT sides are just duplicates of each other. If anything on one side fails during brewing then I can simply unplug the temp probe and heating element and move it to the other side. No...

Keep in mind that the temp probe they include sticks out pretty far which may affect where you want to put the Brew Bucket (i.e. might not fit in some smaller bar fridges with largish compressor humps unless you turn it sideways, making the temp probe somewhat useless if you can't see it). YMMV...

It could be, if the system is somewhat unstable. When you do an auto-tune the PID fires the element and then watches to see how the temperature it reads from the probe reacts to that element firing. It does this a few times to see what the reaction is like and then adjusts the P/I/D values...

Try another auto-tune. I've seen cases where an auto-tune doesn't go right. Kal

If the 7A fuse is blown then the entire HOT bus will no longer receive power power, so most things (including the lights and PIDs) will no longer receive power. Without power to the PIDs, you can't fire the elements or most other things. Unfortunately it's pretty difficult tell from a pictures...

Good point. You're absolutely right - I misread the post to mean they were having issues getting the MLT temperature to match the HLT temperature. It's a common question I get and the questions/suggestions I made were what are the most likely culprits. None of those have anything to do with...

The 7A fuse blowing means that there's something mis-wired or something shorting out as under normal load it should not pull more than 7 amps. With the pumps not running, that fuse should only see about 0.1 to 0.2 amps. With both pumps running add another amp or two, far below 7A. Is there...

Every system is indeed different so my settings would not matter. What I would ask you is these things that seem to make a difference for people who have issues: - Are you using the same 7/8" OD tubing I recommend or the thinner walled 3/4" OD? - Are you using the same center inlet March...

Strange, I don't see your post in my forum! I'm assuming this is a kit from TheElectricBrewery.com? Take a look at our troubleshooting tips thread: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=25460 While it's for the standard 30A panel, most of what's written holds true for the...