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Wy1318 is Boddingtons right? I suggest you buy a can of their Pub Ale and see what you think of it. Maybe you can find some that is not too old/abused.

To make it a lager you have to LAGER it. Ferment 2 weeks at 50 F then condition (lager) as close to 32 F as you can get for the other 1.5 months.

Oh yes, you will need to figure out what your evaporation rate is ad collect enough wort to compensate for the loss. It would be a shame to go to that much trouble and end up with 2 or 3 gallons or wort instead of 5 or 6. As for the discussion on using a single base malt - my last barleywine...

Let us know how it turns out. The last (and only) wheat wine I brewed had 3 ingredients (pale malt 49%, red wheat 49%, and cara-wheat 2%), was aged for 2 months in a 5 gallon bourbon barrel, and won best in show at the state fair.

Why would you want vanilla in an IPA? Agreed. Seems weird, but that is one of the advantages of homebrewing.

I get more of a dill flavor out of Pacific Jade. I am a fan of letting the yeast (especially Belgian yeast) do its thing and see what it can contribute on its own.

They really use Vienna malt and Rye as the base? Interesting. I might have to try some.

I would not put the raw whiskey directly into the beer. Use it to soak the oak chips and the vanilla beans. Then add those to the beer. You can even add the flavored whiskey too. For the vanilla amount, it just depends on how intense you want to vanilla character. I put one split vanilla bean in...

Just use a recipe calculator. Note the gravity with the rice solids. Take those out then add enough flaked rice to get the same gravity.

So does Special B. Hence my suggestion for that instead.

The perceived sweetness could be contributed by the Munich and Caramel malt which should not be in the grain bill IMO. Not much to do about it now except try what Martin says. Carbonation should help too.

Can you add some kind of lip (maybe with metal molding) to the bottom of the hood and then put a small drain in the lip?

I find he character of Northern Brewer hops change from year to year. Some years they are minty, others they are earthy (woody). A pilsner might work with the earthy but I don't think I would like it with the minty. Porter or Dunkel maybe.

I don't see any need for wheat malt, crystal malt, or black patent. Make up the difference with base malt. Perhaps add some flaked barley for mouthfeel. I find the perfect balance of roast and chocolate is to do exactly that, add equal amounts of both malts. I also find that adding some special...

I have but I also decrease the dry hopping amount which I think evens it out.

Why all this racking? For lagers I rack once after 14 days or so into the secondary where I lager. From there it goes into a CO2 purged keg. For ales I might nit rack into a secondary at all unless I want to dry hop or bulk age. The more you rack the more you open yourself up to bad things...

What is the reason for Vienna and Munich? Why not one or the other? Just curious.

I think the roast malt character would interfere with the wheat character. I would would brew it without the non-malt chocolate and see what it tastes like after fermentation. You can always add the chocola (or coca nibs) later if you want. I have found the chocolate wheat to have a lot of...

I would drop the brown malt and the crystal 40 in favor of a 1# special B addition. I find it lends a pleasant plum/raisin character without the need for extended aging to get it. You can up the base malt by 1# to make up the difference.

I have brewed a similar recipe several times and been told by a beer judge from Michigan that I am spot on. My differences: I don't worry about mixing base grain. I use all pale malt plus the crystal 40. For hops I do 1oz at 75 min, 1oz@ 30 min, 1oz at 15 min, 1oz at knock-out for hop stand...