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Thanks for the input. I tried checking for a typical seasonal malt sheet from Rahr, but came up empty. Drives me crazy when maltsters won't supply this kind of information - there's almost always a range they can supply which will be pretty accurate, but not all do.

Right. You'll either want one of those, or one of the connections below if you go with camlocks. You should pick one style and be done with it, I'd suggest, so you have consistency throughout your system. https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/camtc15.htm

OK, but according to some sources, even a standard German wheat malt like Weyermann's has ">300 WK" -- or >90 Lintner. Thank you for providing the link, but I'm not swayed by a very general, citationless blog post from six years ago when more current and specific evidence points to wheat malt...

Where are you getting that data from? Briess's wheat malt is pretty typical of most maltsters', and clocks in at 160-180 Lintner. http://www.brewingwithbriess.com/Assets/PDFs/Briess_PISB_WheatMaltRed.pdf Weyermann doesn't list diastatic power, specifically, but their malt specification...

You didn't say anything about unmalted wheat until now.

Not a bad idea if you have pets or other sources of solids that can float in. That's not preventing oxygenation any, which seemed to be OP's concern.

Ask and ye shall receive. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=123585 Me? I'd like a beer.

Yup. LME to DME have to be adjusted for PPG. Can't just swap one for the other by weight.

I don't think I've seen anyone use a lid during bottling anyway, so the effective space open to air during bottling is pretty much the same regardless of how much liquid is in the bucket. Just bottle quickly & efficiently, minimize any splashing and such, and you'll be fine. Don't overthink this.

With all due respect to Michael Jackson (if you like beer & whisky and haven't heard of him, you're doing yourself a disservice), many beers age gracefully in the bottle, and were designed to do so. It all depends upon the beer and how it was brewed. I still have some bottles from 2007-2009...

An all wheat malt beer converts just fine. Probably faster than barley. That's what was confusing. Check the degrees Lintner statement on a bag of wheat malt sometime if you don't believe me. Now unmalted wheat doesn't, but neither does unmalted barley. The wheat vs barley distinction has...

:confused: What does that have to do with the topic at hand? Alpha amylase works across a broad temperature range. It just so happens it works faster at the temp range we use it for mashing. I'm sure there are other reasons in tobacco curing not to reach such high temps, but that's not an...

If it's anything like WY1728 (and it should be fairly close), it'll be exactly what you want, and a great strain. I used this strain regularly some years back. I really should bring it back.

Is it possible to do all these things? Yes, of course. It is not advisable, as it will not likely result in better beer. Is the real problem the amount of sediment or the amount of carbonation? If it really is the latter, you could just open and immediately recap the bottles. Still sounds...

Doesn't sound bad. Soak each in vodka, then add the tincture at bottling time. That's the easy way. If you like, you can pull a sample to test various dosing levels to determine how much you mean to add.

Makes sense. I'd be more concerned about if/how they were sealed, than at what temperature, over a 1-2 year timespan.

Read this. Anything properly sealed should be just fine. Anything in ziplock bags might be better saved for a lambic or something similar, but I'm always extra cautious about stuff like that. Out of curiosity, why are you storing in the fridge instead of a freezer?

Agreed. If you're ready to bottle, do it. I like to transfer to secondary when bulk conditioning a big beer, but there are other reasons for doing that. Add some fresh yeast, if you have it, and bottle away.

It's all good. Better rehydrate after all those shed tears with a few beers. :mug:

Seems fishy. How do you explain weizen strains, which are known for being some of the least flocculent brewing strains, yet produce huge kraeusens? Other examples abound. I like English ales, so I use a lot of them. WY1968, super flocculent very average kraeusen. But, if I use 1318...