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Os stop soaking. Spray bottles of Star San are the best for most anything, outside of the inside of racking canes, tubing, and the like.

Everything gets treated with Star San, inside and out, from the end of the boil until it goes in the bottle? Are you diluting it to the manufacturer's standards? Do you have any really old plastic equipment? What's your procedure for determining how much sugar to add at bottling? What's your...

Great picture! Looks mesmerizing. I haven't the foggiest what it is, but I hope your beer still tastes good.

I know how it's pronounced, but that's not how it's spelled. It's not really the same sound as the northern European ö/ø sound anyway. :confused:

No, it's good to think about this kind of stuff, if only to prioritize how to upgrade equipment. If you want to make world class Scottish ales, for example, you need to have a big burner, or learn some other way to compensate. Like to make barleywines and other really big beers? You need to...

Maybe. It's tough to say. Sanywhere from 2-10F above ambient is pretty normal. You'll see larger rises in temp in smaller rooms, at high kraeusen, with higher gravity worts, at higher temps, etc., and smaller rises when the situation is the opposite. The delta between ambient and beer temp...

I'd switch to light DME and cut the carapils in half. The late additions are probably not necessary, either. If you really want, a small 30 or 20 minute addition is fine, but not more than 1oz. And what's with spelling "wort" as "wört?" Some heavy metal thing?

Not really. It's more a function of recipe, OG, temperature, yest selection, and a few other minor variables. "Health" of fermentation is very low on that list.

It makes some really tasty beers, too.

Yes, this has everything to do with pH and how you mean to store the item canned. Anything low pH (typically at or under 4.6 if memory serves) is suitable for water bath canning. Anything above that needs to be pressure cooked if you want it to be shelf stable. Unfermented wort, which...

Huh, learn something new every day. I'll have to look into this website you've pointed out. Thanks for the detail, tagz!

Are you suggesting they use a different yeast for bottling than for primary fermentation? And there is wild yeast in the primary mix? Is this also from FA? I don't remember that being in there.

Just to make it down the chem trail that much faster?

Good question. I suspect it would cut down on the amount of yeast you'd be able to get, but I've never compared methods side by side. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable on the matter will chime in.

I dunno. Plenty of my beers improve from the 2 week mark to the 6-8 week mark. Some don't; it depends upon the beer, and if I've bulk aged it. The only way to know is to taste it at both points in time. I'd trust they know what they're doing. If it's worth it to them to absorb the cost of...

Seriously? Your attitude is going south over this? People responded to an assumption in your original question that there is not any evidence for, and displays a lack of understanding basic nuance of chemistry and biology, and rightly so. On the other hand, there is plenty of evidence to...

That's the safe way. There's no real downside. The long answer is, though, it depends on your recipe, the OG, yeast selection, fermentation temperature, and a couple other factors. Also, lots of brewers like Fermcap - that could help, too.

Or too viscous. Don't boil that much! :p

Really? Why? To play devil's advocate, there's quite a bit of discussion around here about how many beers improve with time in the bottle, especially if they're bottled after only 1-2 weeks. If I had to wager a guess, it's because they feel the flavor is superior after laying it down for...

Don't forget, kids: One brewer's infection is another's innoculation. Don't judge. :tank: