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Please bear with me if this is a dumb question, but it seems I have read its fairly common to skip the secondary fermenter. I have now found this scary new word Autolysis. Is the risk low enough that people are not concerned about this happening? Or are there other factors at play I am not...

I am guessing dry or wet doesn't matter, my question is really when the degradation you referred to occurs. Is it from first day of purchase or between brews while I am saving washed yeast for my next brew? The difference being in the latter scenario I would only have to buy each yeast strand...

So once I buy my dry yeast and use it the first time, it will steadily decline in its ability to reproduce? Or do you mean after use it, wash it and put it in the fridge it will slowly lose its effectiveness until I use it again?

Thanks, so assuming the same fan this thread identifies and a 2L flask how big of a stir bar?

I am leaning towards the DIY stir plate. The next question(s) would then be how big of a flask do I need? Can it just be a mason jar? And how big should the stir bar be?

So is the flask necessary/worth $15 for a 1L? Or can I use a mason jar?

Will I need a stir plate if I am going to start washing and recycling my yeast?

Seems risky to be putting the heat stick in a cooler would it not instantly melt any plastic that comes in contact with the element?

My thought there was holding the temp for sparge water. I guess that's where the propane comes back into play.

Is 1500 watts the most I can get out of a heat stick? Sounds like a temp controller would be handy too.

Thanks, that's what I was wondering. I can see the value in indoor brewing (also indoor meal preparation)

I saw pots with elements built in, my heat stick is just the removable version. That was the whole premise for my question, what am I missing? What's the difference between an electrical kettle and a heat stick?

I wasn't referring specifically to the element. Just reading about people building there own eBIAB systems and spending that money confused me considering the heat stick was a reasonably priced alternative. Although I brew as much as 8 gallon batches so I am guessing 1 1500 watt heat stick...

Can I use a heat stick (the one I plan to build: http://lovebrewingcompany.com/brewing/diy/heatstick/) in wort? I am seeing eBIAB systems that appear to use similar elements in their pots that cost $600+, my heat stick will only be about $60. Am I missing something?

What's an eBIAB? I was considering the heat stick for sparge and strike water but assumed the elements would get disgusting in wort. Is there another electric heat source I am not considering?

I guess the question is what size were the batches and how long did it take to boil. I Was running my BG-10 on fairly high for a little over 2.5 hours total. My batch was 10 gallons of water to get 6.

Tell me more!?!

I used over 2 gallons of propane with my buyou classic BG10 burner (up to 150,000 btu) and a 10psi regulator to make a 6 gallon AG batch. Is that not a bit high?

My intention was to fly sparge, I may have done this incorrectly. I vorlauf and drained about 2 gallons then added 2 gallons of sparge, then repeated 1 gallon at a time, with minimal rest in between and no stirring.

Will the RHB-32ATC work, these are the specs: * 0-32% Brix Scale * Accurate to +/- 0.20% Brix * Scale Divisions: 0.20% * Automatic Temperature Compensation (ATC) * Sturdy design, made of durable machined Aluminum, not "carbon" plastic