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http://www.newgrounds.com/portal/view/382321 That's where the author ripped it off from, the above version is more fun... lol

One Foot In The Grave (and that whole series) - William Mark Simmons Alvin Maker Series - Orson Scott Card The Weapon - Michael Z. Williamson

So, anyone out there been drinking a homebrew and wondered how it might taste with a little bit more hops? A couple of times I have popped the cap on an IPA and mixed gradually. But have any of you done it more scientifically, by making a hop tea and adding a bit? Seems to me like it might...

I think sunlight only effects beer, because of the hops... Apfelwein and other wine = no hops = no problem

1.014 is just fine.... what makes it weak is your starting grav... A pic would help to identify whether it is mold or not. Sometimes during secondary there's white floaties that aren't mold. If it tastes and smells fine, you'll be fine to bottle. You won't get sick...

Well, i was hoping to get to this today, i'm going to find out once and for all what the problem is. I'll post back with the results....

That was my other thought. To add to the sparge what i miss on the mash. I've got buckets at .5 gallon marks. I guess this next brew is going to be quite the test. I'll brew for my target, if i get all my run-off correct, i'll assume it's evap rate.... I still need a better chiller lol...

Is it just me or did it look like they let it ferment next to the toilet? Hey, that could have been really good. That stout i had that got infected still tasted great, still does...

I think it's quite possible that it is boil off, i always go under my final volume, OG will be higher and last time promash said topping off would hit dead on. However, i know i use to lose alot of mash/sparge water to equipment, but now i've fixed it and i wasn't losing much but i was still...

Well looking at that it seems my brewsheet is correct in that aspect... Man, son of a gun i guess it's just stupid equipment...

Ok, so i batch sparge (title, duh), anyway i need some advice. Usually what i do is use a little spreadsheet that me and my brew partner put together for brewing with all the math and stuff already done, we just input our batch size and grain pounds. It works ok, but there's always...

I'm still toying with mine, i used the copper water heater supply line to give it a nice stiffness (dirty) with a braided ss hose over the tip.... the only problem with this is you can't get every bit because of the shape.... i'm gonna eventually re-do it completely, i was thinking of a way to...

Really i was just a little frustrated, i tasted it and it tasted great it just had a bit more of a 'roasted' flavor to it... Eh, it's fermenting so i guess that's the best thing i can hope for right now... Now to get everything planned for my next beer.... Oh and i fixed the leak problem...

Sorry i meant 212, i didn't have a good brew day today lol... I'd say it's a need for a while just to keep any wild yeast out till the beer yeast can get going, once it's got that constant output of CO2 it could be loose fitting... But to be safe i always keep mine airtight.

If you are starting out by using extract then the boil volume really doesn't matter, however i'd suggest around 3 gallons, it just works a little smoother. Unless you are steeping grains you don't need a thermometer, water boils at 220*F. You'll know when it's boiling. Airtight is a must....

I am a complete and total failure.... So, this is the first time i've brewed in about 3 months. It was also the first 10 gallon batch... It was also my first overall failure (so maybe not but i feel like it was)... I'm not drunk (unfortunately) so this has to go under Mindless Mumbling...

It's called a carboy, lol.... Just get Yuri to make you a big ass cap and big ass capper, then drink it through siphon hosing.... no need to make anything special, just improvise...

LOL, old thread, this beer has been carbonated for a while now, i went ahead and bottled.... So far only one has been horrible, and of course it's the one i took to the LHBS guy, and it exploded on us both....

Sorry, i was referring to 70-72*F inside the fermenter not room temp.

70-72 degrees isn't too warm it's within ale yeast temps. 65-68 would be better because there is heat produced from fermentation... as for the first question, always use the hydrometer. Primary 7 day, Secondary 14 days, bottles 21 days, that's the general rule of thumb... However when you get...