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Can someone check my math. Assuming RO water, I'm getting the following water profile from the picture: Ca2: 115 Mg2: 5 Na: 10 Cl: 115 SO4: 115 Here are the numbers I'm using: 1300g mash 3# CaCl 3# Gypsum 2015g kettle 3# CaCl 2# Gypsum Any idea what the '200grams directly to kettle @80min'...

I guess I'll raise this thread from the dead. I plan on brewing an Edward clone this weekend. I dawned my inspiration from the Redit thread where people could ask Shaun Hill questions and he'd answer. One question was about cloning Edward and his advice was to use lots of centennial and simcoe...

If I'm reading the brew sheet correctly, I'm surprised by the equal amounts of Gypsum and CaCl. 3# of each. You'd think the Gypsum would be higher (3X+) than the CaCl for a world class DIPA. I guess not!

Thank you. That's what I figured, but I just wanted to make sure. What was throwing me off was that it's making up approximately 4% of the grain bill, which I thought would impart some flavor?

The acidulated is almost 4% of the grain bill. Do you know if it's just used to adjust the PH or is it part of the recipe?

It definitely looks close in color. Are you using the recipe on the first page of this thread?

I can definitely help you out! I'd be interested in trading for the Alpine options. Which MBC are you interested in since it's readily available too?

Avery's Rufus Corvus is a barrel-aged sour ale. From the label description: 85% ale aged in Cabernet Sauvignon barrels, 9% ale aged in Chardonnay barrels, 6% ale aged in Zinfandel barrels ISO: Pliny Heady Any good DIPA or IIIPA that I can't get in Ma

It is very easy to come by but it's not cheap - $19 for a 4pk.

Do you have any KBS, Mirror Mirror or The Abyss?

Do you have access to Zombie Dust?

Let me know if you're interested in anything from the Boston area. I've been trying to get my hands on some KBS.

Not exactly. EC-1118 is rated up to 18% ABV. I know US-05 can go pretty high but on paper it's only rated to around 12% ABV. In most cases this isn't an issue but, the alcohol tolerance isn't the same. Also, a 5g packet of EC-1118 is only around $1 whereas a 11.5g packet of US-05 is around $3.50.

I opened them up, sprinkled a little yeast into each bottle and re-capped them with sanitized caps. It's not ideal but better than waiting months to carb an IPA.

I had a similar problem with a Maharaja clone that I brewed. It came in at 11% ABV and I bottled as normal. After about 3 weeks I put one in the fridge for 24 hours and cracked it open and got absolutely no carbonation. Not even the faintest hiss! So I pitched some fresh, run of the mill dry...

Hi Guys, I'm a small batch brewer and dose each bottle with priming sugar after filling them up. To speed up the bottle carbonation and since I mainly brew big IPAs (1.080+), I'm thinking of measuring out a certain amount of priming sugar and mixing it will the proper amount of dry yeast (I...

Sorry, you're right. I was mixing up terminology. My strike temp was actually 170F and the mash settled down to the desired 152F. After hitting my temp, I waited 5 minutes then reopened the mash tun to check the temperature again. It was a little low so I added some boiling water to bring it...

I calibrated the thermometer using another thermometer and they read the exact same temperature, which I think rules out the thermometer. I think I've figured out what's wrong. I just finished brewing a Heady Topper Clone and I was aiming for a strike temp of 151 holding it for 90 minutes. I...

I have checked the temperatures at the end of the mash and usually it's only off by a couple degrees. Could this be the problem? Is there a big difference between 152F and 149F? I've actually started doing exactly what you're recommending. I start with a mash temperature that's +2 degrees...

I use mrmalty for my pitching rate. I've only used dry yeast and mainly just S-05 and S-04. For a OG of 1.080, I pitch approximately 1/3 of a 11.5g packet.