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Marked the holes, and used a Milwakee Holesaw to make my cuts. This was the first one. Did NOT use enough oil. I cannot reccomend that enough. Every hole afterwards took 1/4 the time with the proper amount of cutting oil. Third pic is a dry fitting of bulkheads and components. And finally...

Built the stand. I had a few freinds who had about 28' of 2x2 steel, with holes cut out in it. I "don't know" how they got it, but it works really well for my uses. I cut it into lengths (ugh that was a pain), and then fitted it with 5.5" carriage bolts, lock washers, and nuts.

Started work on my control panel. Never wired anything before... it's pretty tough on your fingers! Especially the 10gauge wire.

Got my pot and a whole big delivery of goodies! I think it was a good idea to do electric brewing. I dont think this will heat very well on my stove!

After much help from these forums, and my pre-build thread found here, my build is complete! It is a 20 gallon, 5500watt Camco powered, Auber PID controlled BIAB Brewery. It seems I can do 10 gallons final product of a high gravity brew on it. I think I could kick it up to 12 or 13 with...

Everything went great.... except I forgot to add the honey. :o Does anyone have a reccomendation on when and how to add it now? Should I pop the top of my carboy and add the honey at room temp? Or should I dissolve the honey is hot water, and add that when cool? Should I wait for kraussen...

Brewing this today! 10 Gallon Batch, E-BIAB System Ingredients (All finely crushed at LHBS on my lunchbreak!): 12# US-2 Row 1# Dark Munich 2# Red Wheat 2# CaraMunich 4oz Kent Goldings Mash @ 156* for 60 Minutes Mash Out @ 168* Boil for 60 Minutes 1oz Kent Goldings @ 60, 30, 15, 1 minutes...

You'll be fine, unless the kraussen in your airlock dries solid, and the lid becomes the next item to fail! Just keep an eye on it, and either build a blowoff tube, or continue to swap airlocks when they're filled with kraussen!

Hey JRems... There's a guy selling it on craigslist around here. I could swing by and grab you it if you're interested. I'll mail it to you if you want to pay whatever he's asking, and shipping. PM me! Otherwise, thanks for the "help" everyone! Haha, I knew I'd get a quality response...

Does anyone know what kind of tap this is?

By the way: It says Model #: C5930ss I can't find any information on that model anywhere!

It's a superbowl miracle! Just like if my Eagles ever make it back there.... Kelitore, I'm in Albany NY. IF you're going to visit, I reccomend waiting until the spring thaw! Jeep, I'll have some updates tonight when I get to polishing!

Find a guy who just bought an old VFW post, and has no idea what to do with all the equipment. Appreciate it man. I was really just kidding about no-one looking. I'll be polishing up the outside with some bartenders freind, doing a final bleach of the inside, and using silicone to seal...

And some afters...

Even if no-one is reading this, I'm still going to post pictures. :mug: Here's day 3 of the resotration... CLEANUP! YAY! Here are some "before" pictures.

I'm using oxyclean right now on old, beer encrusted perlicks. They've been soaking for 12 hours, and the gunk is falling out. I think a blast of hot water will clear them pretty well. The star san solution will be great for sanatizing, but I needed something stronger to clean the organic...

You notcied the price huh? Yep, 275$. It came with 2 sanke keg taps, all the lines, fittings, taps... and a power drill (?). The guy said everything in the cooler is included!

With HardieBacker and 150lb swivel castors on! Need to trim the L a bit... Next step is flipping it back up, and removing all lines/fittings/taps and CLEANING!

Nightly Update! Framed out the bottom, insulated it, sprayed some foam, then trimmed it off. Just about to put the HardieBacker on!

As for the replacement bottom, I'm just going to use some 2x4s, 1.5" solid foam insulation, and HardieBacker. The picture below has the layout for the bottom. The HardieBacker will enclose the bottom fully. I'll also be using GreatStuff expanding foam to seal all cracks and crevices. Once...