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Do you crush your grain? If not then that is worth checking. Crushed........... Check your PH of the mash liquid only. You might need Five Star Chemicals 5.2 stabilizer to correct the PH. You can add grain to an existing recipe to increase the OG or add DME at the last 15 minutes of the...

Some refrigerators have the heat exchanger built into the sides. If this is the case the sides get hot when the fridge is cooling. You can not drill through the sides of the foregoing is the case or you will drill through this exchanger and ruin the fridge. You can come out the back or bottom...

I bought at B3. They are a quality product with really good attention to surface finish. I am totally happy with them. Look for a "deal of the day" sale to get the best price.

Sometimes manual control is the easiest. Program change and constantly setting PID controllers, temperature controllers is just a lot more work for 1 special brew.

+1 on that. What he said works for me.

I went to all stainless but did it over time. I don't think it will hurt anything to leave them on your equipment as long as you clean them every time you brew.

Yes it does take longer but it was designed to not get stuck. I find that 10 to 12 gallon batches are easy to run clear because there is so much more grain. I have never had a stuck mash even with a fine crush and 60% wheat and so I am happy with that.

You can take a quart of your wort after pitching yeast and mixing and ferment that (fast ferment) at a higher temperature and it will finish before the main brew. This gives you the FG ahead of time. Here is a more accurate text fast ferment: Fast Ferment Test - German Brewing Techniques

I would say it has a gusher infection. Read Yooperbrew's post #3 in this thread. Another link: Taste and smell of sour beer. The symptoms and causes of sour homebrew.

If you rinse off Starsan it serves no purpose at all. It is though you are buying it and slowly pouring it out on the lawn.

I am going to try this and use half all purpose flour and 1/2 high gluten flour with yeast and let it sit in the fridge over night to develop the yeast. An Italian Pizza place sells me the high gluten flour and they let their pizza dough age this way for the next days pizza and their crust is...

If the keg is larger than the burner you may have to make a temporary bridge support. I used some stacked block wall bricks (both sides of the burner and a barbecue grill that was 3 to 6 inches above the burner). This will support the keg well and make it safe. If the keg is too close to the...

No, all modern grains are fully Modified and do not require step mashing.

If you leave beer alone in the primary for 3 weeks it should be fermented. I would never take a reading before 3 weeks because it needs to condition (clean up after itself) too. A secondary is not needed for an ale.

It is good to see someone who has made the decision to go all grain as it is that easy. Having the best equipment you can afford will help you by making it easier to get a good outcome when you brew. The quality of your beer depends on good planning, Good ingredients, Being sanitary, Measuring...

Most kits are Ale yeast as most first time brewers do not have the means to control temperature. The sweet spot fermentation temperature for yeasts are.... Ale: 66F to 67F (19C to 20C) Lager: 50F to 53F (10C to 12C)

This is crushed........

Back lighting shows off beer. You see the clarity and color better. What you see behind the glass should be slightly out of the depth of field so it shows off the beer instead of the background. Simple cameras have limited abilities. Look at others pictures to see what they did that you like...

Colder temperature keeps CO2 in suspension in the liquid. So if the bottles were at the temperature when you brought them home at they would have more CO2 gas in the air space in the top of the bottle.

You are right, keep it in the primary longer and hold the temperature lower between 66F to 68F. The lower temperatures will have less esters and taste better.