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Add some DME near the end of the boil. You can add it in Beersmith as well as the water so you know how much to add.

Just make beer you like and take 3 extra laps around the block.:D

Post the recipe and your procedure and maybe someone can help.

Read this thread. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/sour-smell-taste-will-die-down-64852/

I suggest as a new brewer to first master your equipment rather than jumping into your own recipe. It is very important to like what you brew and with that much chocolate malt it's going to be very bitter from that grain! You don't want to get turned off of brewing by your very first brew...

30 LBS of grain for 10 gallons would be a very strong beer. What are you using to calculate everything? It is very easy to hit temperatures, alcohol and IBU's if you are using Beersmith. I hope you wrote down the temperature of the strike water, quarts of strike water, grain temperature as...

If you want to really get into yeast then this article on Maltose Falcons website is really helpful. I now have a microscope and a hemocytometer and use them for counting and when I really want to know how my yeast is doing. You can see if there is bacteria too. If you really love brewing...

By mashing at 145F you made a less malty beer because of the few unfermentables. The other adjuncts make the maltiness. It will get less pronounced maltiness the longer it is aged. With 14 lbs of malt it may be somewhat strong too. It will be very tasty and some women just don't like either...

Well that will only happen 1 time. Forgetting anything will make you paranoid about not screwing up in your next brews. Everyone has done something horrible at one time and though painful we are much better after that. You have some really nice equipment I must say.

Just give in and get a 10 gallon cooler. You will be much happier.

Go ahead and use it. I find that you will run out of room at some point depending on how strong you like to brew and grain to water ratio. Use the Can I mash it calculator on this page to see if your recipe will fit in the cooler. Edit: Most likely you can get 13 lbs of grain in there @ 1.18...

American Sanky stainless kegs are 30 lbs empty. I have never personally seen them in aluminum.

The foremost point when brewing lagers is being very sanitary because there is nowhere for off-tastes to hide as with ales. Use the freshest ingredients. A double size starter is important to get fermentation started quickly and don't get worried that you can not see a big krausen as lager...

Carbing in bottles takes generally 3 weeks. If the temperature is a bit lower it still carbs but it might take up to 5 weeks. It's your choice.

Let it go 2 weeks in the primary which will condition it too. Then check FG. It should be finished. For hi gravity 3 to 4 weeks. Then bottle or keg.

If instructions say to count bubbles then you know that the instructions were made by someone without much experience. Your brew should be finished in 2 to 3 weeks when the SG is at or near 1.010 SG. Then it is OK to bottle or keg the beer.

You guys looking for a good deal on a pot need to look at this.

PID Controller

You will like it better in 2 weeks as bitterness will subside a bit. You need to buy a scale and they are not very expensive so don't put it off as you will find many uses for it other than brewing.

I like whirlfloc tablets. No measuring and they are a combination of ingredients that work very well.