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Let us know how it goes. :mug:

Sounds about right to me. The reason for low rpm is to not throw the crushed powder produced all over the place. You want the grain fully open so hot water can get easily into it.

Depending on the yeast you can keep the temperature as low as the yeast will work at. For Nottingham I ferment at 60F to 62F (not air temperature) and then none of the krausen comes out. I do use a blow off tube though as it could overflow with a higher gravity brew.

Well, I am glad you all got that straightened out. I love it when all ends well. If anyone has beer that tastes bad there is no excuse when you brew your next batch because it was covered well in this thread. :mug:

You can add new yeast when bottling to the pail if you are worried. Bottle as normal. It will be fine. I have had my beer for over a year in a keg and it is still good.

Put a blanket up to the window to block the light. Keep the fermenter cool. If this means moving it then do it. You should have the temperature in the lower end of the recommended temperature range suggested by the yeast you are using.

Good grief. You will know better next time. Drinking and brewing do not go together. Forgetfulness is usually the biggest offender but having hot liquid splash or loosing balance and falling on or into the boiler would be bad. Let's face it, if you are going to brew then lay off the suds.

If you have a freezer and a Ranco controller you are golden. You can maintain temperature in the Carboy or other vessel that your beer is in by taping the Ranco sensor to the vessel and placing a good insulator over it and taping it in place. now the sensor get's the temperature inside. I now...

And here I thought you were all 30. :mug:

I'm retired and love every minute of it. You can brew any time and plenty of time to refine your brew system and make changes to reduce the "work" in brewing. Use pumps and quick disconnects so you can clean with ease. I'm now into automated brewing just to make brewing less work and more...

Keep records on starting and ending volume and you can adjust the evaporation rate in your spreadsheet or program if using Beersmith. You then will be able to know how much you will have remaining in the boiler. :)

The only problem heating your house is that each brew would have to be hundreds of gallons and it only lasts 3 to 4 days per batch. :D :drunk:

A good method is to make a dip stick for your boiler. Even if you measure the preboil volume the post boil volume will be less and if you have no way to accurately measure it you can not predict alcohol accurately. You also can not accurately calculate other parameters. I never leave a drop...

Experience. I have measured and during the highest point in the fermentation and I have recorded 8 degrees between 2 calibrated thermometers. Hi temperatures are responsible for a lot of off tastes in beer. Yes it is quite exothermic. :)

I see infections in this forum all the time and it is a shame to see this happen. A new brewer should enjoy beer without infections. Here are some pointers why this happens and how to prevent it. After you boil you should cool the wort quickly to 65F or lower if possible. Use a chiller. If...

I'm glad to see that averyones responses have been so informative and un biased. I like the ECS control panel on a computer screen because you can see more things at one time. For brewers who like to get fancy this is a very impressive and can be what sways the end users choice to that system...

That is somewhat a silly question. The Brewtroller is a controller, therefore it only learns what we program it to do. This unfortunately is not "Hal". edit: OOps, I did not read that correctly....... never mind. Bill C :o

Fermentation at it's peak is about 8 degrees higher than its surrounding air. I tape my Ranco controller probe to the vessel with bubble wrap over it so the probe picks up the actual vessel temperature. If you do put it into the vessel it must be in a sterile stainless tube. Those of you that...

Liquid yeast are really quite a range of yeast and ferment wort in many different ways which produce esters which partially change the taste of the beer. They are very pure strains when compared to dry yeasts. Learn about yeasts below........ White labs: White Labs Wyeast: Wyeast...

Anything that touches the boiled and cooled wort must be sterile. This would include the water you added. If not sterile water the beer could be infected. Beer looks darker in the carboy or pail. In the glass it will appear lighter. Always ferment at the yeasts recommended temperature...