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It's likely that the beer could be ruined but you won't know until you taste and smell it. If it tastes and smells good, package it. If it smells like nail polish or vinegar, dump it.

I used DD in primary in a blonde and it was very estery. Even at 18 months, it was still mostly fruit. I used it at bottling in an ardennes pale ale and it was a mixture of bright fruit with a little barnyard underneath at a year old.

Hard to tell from the video but it looks like yeast in suspension. Are you pouring carefully from the bottle and not disturbing the dregs in the bottom of the bottle?

Definitely wouldn't hurt to add fresh yeast at bottling. If you use champagne yeast or a bottling yeast like cbc-1 you don't have to worry about bottle bombs. a few grams of yeast in the bottling bucket should do the trick

It would be helpful to see your recipe. I've found that ratio of chocolate malts to crystal malts can have the biggest impact on chocolate flavor. If adjuncts are what you're after, cacao nibs give the purest chocolate flavor in my experience. I usually add them in secondary for a week or so. I...

Brewed Jamil's mild using 1318 and it turned out swimmingly. It's a little hefty at 4.1% but very flavorful. This is my favorite yeast for a mild!

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1. Saison 2. English Ale 3. Sour

530 can be a slow attenuator. I've found that it likes to chew off a few gravity points when it seems like it is already done. Definitely leave it for another week.

Brewed an American stout today. OG 1.072. Pitched it onto 1318 yeast cake of a mild I bottled this morning.

Man that looks delicious. I love alt! I've only tried to brew it once and wasn't pleased with the results. I really need to make another one soon.

Maybe it's dark munich? Would that put you closer to the target?

1.030 is a gorgeous finish for a stout that big. Assuming you have a nice amount of roasted grains and a solid bittering charge, that's about what I would aim for. Let that sucker age for at least six months to smooth out the rough edges. Send me a bottle!

Maris Otter or a contintental pilsner would be my choice.

I've gotten bandaid/plastic with really hoppy brett beers before. It can come from underpitching, high temps and I've read on MTF that brett can transform some hop oils into the compound responsible for those flavors. Someone else can do a better job at describing this.

At first I just wanted to recreate my favorite commercial beers and try all the most popular ingredients. These days I am focused more on my process, water chemistry, starting simple and making small changes to recipes/process over time.

I'll trade you some 2012 cascade hops and some old, infected plastic tubing.

I have an extract solera going. I use wheat extract and maltodextrin with aged hops. It's been about a year and I'm about to make my first pull. Aside from being a little too sour (pH 3.1) I don't think I could tell you it was an extract in a side by side comparison with my other solera project.

I'm guessing the ibu are probably too high for the souring bacteria. In general I like to keep mine under 10 for sours and under 5 for first generation commercial pitches. At 1.012 you can pitch some aggressive dregs like Russian River, Jolly Pumpkin or Crooked Stave and likely see some...

wy3522/wlp550 has been the quickest turnaround where it's ready to drink.