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Your grain bill would be helpful....If your pre-boil volume is correct and the gravity is correct, your post boil gravity has to be correct if the volume is correct.....something is off here. Extract cannot disappear during the boil. Need: grain bill mash temp pre-boil volume pre-boil gravity...

Your starter will work if it's oxygenated on a stir plate

This is my favorite calculator, very easy to use: http://yeastcalculator.com/

You don't have to use a lager yeast for bottle conditioning. Find a nice neutral strain that has good flocculation, dry yeast actually works great. Get your beer up to room temp BEFORE adding the yeast, you want it active, not dropping because the temp is too cold

An oak spiral might work....you might have to soak it for an extended time if you want it to be neutral prior to inoculating it.

I condition the grain and have my rollers set at 0.035

At work we dump it into the 120bbl fermenter through the dry hop port on the top. At home I use a secondary and rack onto the powder.

Honestly, I would go with a single bittering charge and put everything else in the whirlpool.

You could also consider WLP004.

The recipe sheet should indicate the expected final gravity. For a pale ale the typical range is 1.010-1.015

Your gravity should drop very quickly in the first 3-4 days, the fermentation curve is not linear. Here is one of mine:

I apply heat to the kettle as soon as I have a couple of inches collected. I keep the heat adjusted to about 190F. After about 1/2 full I apply full heat. Checking your kettle full ("pre boil") gravity will tell you whether you need to dilute or boil longer.

When I steeped I used my oven. Pre-heat it to it's lowest temp setting. Place the grain in a mesh bag, heat the pot of water to about 150, put the grain bag in the pot, cover it, place in pre-heated oven for 30 minutes....no muss, no fuss. Also, I would suggest using cocoa powder instead of...

You just need to dial in your temps with the new set-up. Stainless doesn't transmit heat real well so you have to be real careful applying direct heat to a Stainless mash vessel, and 10 gallon batches is a large mass to heat, there will be delays. You need to get the strike temperature dialed...

Here's where I do hydro readings: Mash before run off, Preboil (kettle full), post boil (into fermenter), daily during fermentation...I also do a pH reading at these same points

I would use the spigot (which is what I did before switching to a unitank). I sample every day and plot it, it becomes very clear when fermentation is winding down. I use 70% ethanol ("Everclear") in a spray bottle to sanitize after sampling. On any new recipe you should do a fast fermentation...

^^^ This. The IBU's are specific to the equipment used and the recipe in question. Utilization will vary from recipe to recipe even on the same equipment. IBU numbers are a very rough estimate for a place to start, and with papers I have read comparing calculated to laboratory analysis, the...

My post was directed at the need for a beta glucan rest (not necessary), My opinion is that foam/head retention is a matter of foam positive proteins and isohumulone and don't feel that manipulation within the alpha/beta amylase ranges effects it at all. I mash 90% of my beers at 150F with great...

Patients my friend.. You want fermentation complete AND several days of rest at final gravity for yeast clean up, that usually involves a minimum of 2 weeks.