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Once yeast is rehydrated it should never go more than 15 minutes without the addition of some wort for nutrients, doing a tempering method (adapting the yeast to wort temperature) is a great way to provide nutrients and adjust the yeast to its future environment. Yeast consume millions of...

Better than 3 boilovers on the kitchen stove :)

Since you are wiring 240V, you might look at http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/ for future considerations on expansion.

You are kind of stuck unless you have the ability to introduce CO2 into the fermenter prior to opening to relieve the underpressure. You might find it beneficial to invest in a 5lb CO2 tank just for cellar work....even you are not kegging.

Do a proper rehydration, then temper the hydrated yeast with small amounts of wort until the yeast is within 10F of the wort....then pitch. Hydration allows the yeast to get it's cell membrane in good shape before being subjected to the osmotic stress of wort. Tempering it with wort acclimates...

I don't have a pic since I don't collect yeast at home, but it is essentially a block and bleed setup where the sight glass replaces the "T"

So the strainer bag has yeast/trub and dry hops? I would give it at least a week after pulling the bag if you are not crashing/fining.

By regulating the dump valve and bleed valve you can get very fine control of the flow with little loss.

Use a valve on the sight glass instead of a cap. Crack the downstream valve then open the dump.

I use a 1.5" TC to male 1/4" flare connector with a John Guest 1/4" flare to push connect (5/16") fitting (http://www.farmhousebrewingsupply.com/1-4-mfl-push-to-connect/). I use BevSeal Ultra tubing with push connect fittings on everything; faucet tail pieces, keg connectors, Unitank and Brite tank

I also have the Brite tank (10 gal) and was disappointed that there wasn't a way to relieve pressure when there is product in the tank. I modified mine like this:

I use a 1/5HP sump pump in a bucket. I use a cross pattern of pvc pipe to set my keg (upside down) on the bucket with a section of cpvc to get the spray ball way up into the keg, then just cycle hot caustic for about 30 minutes. I remove the dip and gas tubes and clean them separately.

I second the MoreBeer location in Los Altos. Whole Foods market allows you to build your own 6-pack, there's one in San Jose https://www.wholefoodsmarket.com/stores/blossomhill

You could use a more alcohol tolerant yeast for bottling, something like a dry ale yeast

I think all will be well

That is force carbing....if you had added priming sugar then it would be primed, just like bottling, which is great technique and you should try priming at least once to see how you like it....you can always tweek the carbonation by venting or adding CO2. Consult a carbonation chart to...

I always measure pH because it is a variable that the brewer can control, just like temperature. When I make a particular recipe I want it to finish with the beer I intended, not a beer that just "came out fine". Control everything you can.

Did you prime the keg or are you force carbing? A pH test would be great if you have a meter. Let it ride in the keg for a couple weeks and re-sample. What yeast strain did you use?

The "C" hops we usually use for bittering charges. Late hops are a variety of Citra, Amarillo, Cashmere, Simcoe, etc. I don't know why, but Simcoe has a lot of Bell Pepper for me.