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If your grain has a kolbach index at 40 or higher there is no need for anything but a single infusion... The beta glucan has been broken down during malting.

Sounds fine, if you are going to use a plate chiller I would recommend using a bag or spider for your hops, you don't want hop debris going into the plate chiller

Yep, that's why we suggest that seeing bubbles is not a good indication of fermentation....leaky lids on buckets are very common.

The head pressure will be in equilibrium with the beer. At the brewery where I work, we set the carb stones to about 25PSI then monitor head pressure looking for our desired volume of CO2 (temp/pressure)....we then verify the CO2 volume with an Anton-Paar device.....because the gauges on...

I set my fermenter to 35F for cold crashing, ideally you want it around 32F

I use an MW102 and it is the meter we use on the brewdeck at work for all of our brew day checks. The temp probe is separate which isn't ideal but the unit works very well, calibration is simple, and probe replacement is pretty cheap. I recommend it.

You could use something like this: https://www.morebeer.com/products/carbonating-keg-lid.html with a pressure gauge connected to your keg gas post. Just monitor your head pressure and adjust the carb stone pressure as required until there is equilibrium.....then you can vent the keg, put a...

In the brewery we add sugars to the boil, I do the same at home...it insures good mixing, sanitation, and complete dissolution. If you are doing something with real high gravity (>20P) or if you have a high percentage of sugar (>20%), you might hold back on some of the addition until high kausen...

Remember that even though fermentation might be complete, the yeast aren't really finished. There is clean up of off flavor by-products to be done and several days to a week at terminal gravity allows this to happen...you can elevate the temp a few degrees also to help it along.

Gelatin works best when cold. Crash it, fine with gelatin, give it another 24 hours at crash temp, then rack into the serving keg

I looks like you want to sour before fermentation. Lacto likes higher temps (26-35C) and really won't produce a krausen, it is making lactic acid, not alcohol and CO2. You measure lacto production by taking pH readings, when the desired pH is reached you ferment with your preferred strain.

It just helps keep CO2 in solution, it's more important for counter-pressure transfers but there is still about 1.8 or so volumes of CO2 in finished (flat) beer....less foaming during transfer.

That grain bill looks like about 30% sugar (maple syrup, honey, brown sugar). Yeast prefer glucose and will go to town on it before they take up maltose. My guess is that by the time the yeast finished with all the sugar, alcohol was high and nutrients were low so there is a quantity of maltose...

Leave it where it is, the colder the better for racking

There is some literature that suggests it's detrimental to do starters for dry yeast. The reason: manufactures insure that the dry yeast has adequate nutrients and glycogen reserves, the starter just depletes these. Proper rehydration is the way to go and just increase the number of packages to...

3 cups is about 710 ml, 4 oz is about 120 g. You want to shoot for 10:1 so 710ml would use 71g of DME so I think your starter has more extract than the optimum. Is this for a single liquid yeast pack? You would get much more growth by using a larger starter, growth is determined by cell density...

The creamy color of fermentation is more reliable than krausen for a starter. Could be that 570 just isn't very vigorous so little krausen anyway.

Yes, ClarityFerm is for chill haze which is caused by protein. Gelatin is used for yeast so using both helps take care of both issues that cause haze in beer.

Use Whirlfloc in kettle, ClarityFerm in fermenter, then cold crash for at least a week. Once cold, use gelatin and let it settle for about 3-5 days. Package. The beer will be very clear at this point....you really don't need mechanical filtration. We use a centrifuge to remove yeast but you can...

I use this stuff on my conical fermenter: https://beanfarm.com/products/flexwatt-heat-tape-11-in?variant=24905297801 It works great. For a carboy, use a 2-hole stopper, place a long thermowell in one hole so you can get your temp probe into the middle of your fermenter...