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You will have more bitterness, and less flavor/aroma bitterness. It will be beer, just not exactly what it would have been. It's not going to be world's apart by any means, the Flameout extended time will recover some of the lost flavor or aroma, good call on that. I once switched my bittering...

If infections continue get rid of all your plastics and as previously mentioned boil/sanitize what you can't get rid of. It's pretty hard to get an infection if you use some form of sanitizer, and your equipment is clean. I would say it's either your yeast were dead, or your equipment was dirty...

I have a 4 oz glass that I test my brews with every few days. It's good to try them as they evolve. My last ipa smelled amazing but tasted like water for a week. Then it started developing that harsh young hop bite, once that faded it was excellent. Soon as it tastes good drink it. It will...

It will compact more, but you cant brew a 2.5g batch and get 2.5 gallons of beer. Alot of the beer recipes on here are 5.5 or 6 gallon batches because after said and done they will have around 5 gallons in the keg after losses. As far as maximizing yield, use whirliflock in the boil, and cold...

Yes because you can build it to fit any style

I'm no chemist, but it looks really soft to me. Plug it into brewersfriend water chemistry calculator tool and play around with it. Should be easy to hit your mineral levels

1.022 sounds wrong. An imperial ipa should have a starting gravity of around 1.050 or higher I would think. Did you check preboil gravity, because it would be hard to get less then what you started with. Also boil with the lid off. You drive out off flavors and condense your wort.

I do 1.5qt/lb grain and then do a dunk sparge in another pot at 170. I get 75+ but it's probably your crush. I'd try to get a better crush, if you change to many variables at once you don't know which variable made it better. You could also toss in some dme if you come up short of your pre boil...

How I calculate water is total I want 5.25g + boil off (1gal/hr for me) + grain absorption/equipment loss (0.06-0.15gal/#grain) with biab it depends on how hard you squeeze and how much you get out. I hold up the bag while my gf presses the sides with 2 plates to squish it and get as much out as...

Sure that's not the yeast from bottling? Op is kind of confusing. Specially with the Irish moss as already mentioned.

When I first started brewing I watched dozens of youtube videos and read as much as I could. It seems as if you are even unsure of what process you will use (all grain, partial mash, extract). I would do some research on those, see what process you want to do for your first batch, then use a...

My city gives bad water reports, don't show half what I need. Since I do 2.5g batches mainly its just easy to pick a few jugs of water up. If I had good water I would definitly use it without issue

Yea it's way over my head, I use RO or distilled and just build it up a tad using ezwatercalc or brewersfriend water calc

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/water-adjustment

What you are doing is fine. Like previously mentioned put them in sooner if you want and let them steep the entire time until around 170. It's usually just steeping grains that don't need a proper mash so any temp works

1. Taking good notes is key especially if you go long periods without brewing. 2. You said you were getting into all grain, don't make to many changes at one time. If you run into a not so great batch you may not know the problem. 3. Water additions as mentioned...

I also do 2-3 gallon batches. One pot 5.5g, and another 3g. I mash in the smaller pot with a bag, pop it in the oven at 170 and mash for 45-60 minutes or so. While it's mashing I heat sparge water in the 5g pot. Then I lift the grains and do a dunk sparge in the boil kettle. This dunk sparge can...

I believe the Edme yeast = s-33. I'm not big into porters, but a general search shows you can use a variety of yeasts for porters. S04, S05, S33, Windsor Ale yeast, and those are the dry yeast types, even more with liquid. If you are doing a 1/5 batch, you would use a small amount of the yeast...

I have 2 ball lock kegs for sale $50 each + shipping. I bought two to many a few years back and was hoping to upgrade my kegerator and it never happened. They have been sitting around, so they are like new. Never been used inside, the outside may have a bit of wear and tear from being moved...

It bugged me while doing BIAB I would get a huge amount of trub in my fermenter. What I do now is I have another bag that I use strictly for cold side. When the boil is done I place the sanitized bag slowly into the wort, lining the brew pot. Then I place my wort chiller on top to kind of hold...