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I bought one of these same units and it had a bad breaker, would trip with nothing connected to the out posts. Electrician confirmed that the breaker shouldn't care about upstream. Still awaiting replacement breaker.

Thanks again Kevin. Last night I figured out the switches - how the contacts stack, the NC and NO workings, etc. The diagram I'm following now is a PJ RIMS one with 3 PIDS which I have already. It doesn't have a 50 amp contactor so I worked that in anyway for future enabling the safe start...

Thanks BadNews, Maybe I'll shop around on the various diagrams and simplify a bit until I understand the PIDs and system better. Then I can play around with fancy switches. /jd

I am basically following this diagram from PJ I found somewhere and I liked the idea of the Safe Start Interlock. I'm trying to use what I have in stock and have a question about switches #1-5. I have 3 position selector switches in stock - sort of based off Kal's site. Question is - I have...

Thanks Kevin - I didn't see your response so deleted my message above as off topic or at least out of the realm of thread maybe. I had an electrician tell me that the breaker shouldn't trip in that situation - all load wires disconnected from it. So we think it is a bad breaker. Trying to get it...

oh boy oh boy oh boy -- many thanks!

thanks so much to PJ and others for this thread. Very helpful. ( -- had question on my electrical system but seems too far off topic so deleted it. )

Tossing my hat into the ring!

So I found a 18" long piece of 2" copper for $2, and since I'm a cheap bastar*, (can you cuss on this forum?) thought I would make my own tri-clover parts (excepting the clamp) from the guys over at Home Distiller. http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=62&t=27056 and for totally...

So I'm trying to electrify and set up in my basement (which has running water opposed to my shop which has a tank of water) and the basement has two 30 amp circuits running to it. One for dryer and one for water heater which is no longer in use. I want to have a 240v element in each of HLT and...

Your link, Swab, ships to Alaska where the other doesn't - so appreciated! /jd [edit] Oops - going through the shipping quote process: Doesn't ship to Alaska/Hawaii. Irritating as hell. Thanks anyway, though.

I've been considering starting to collect some parts, first just to get a couple elements in the BK and HLT. I've read through this thread and Kal's stuff (both very helpful) but notice on Amazon that the PIDs don't include model numbers. Pretty frustrating not knowing enough to figure out which...

Second the open sourcing. Sounds like you don't really want to deal with merchandising the software (very understandable) - but releasing the code to the community would be a big gesture. I'm in the beginning of going electric and researching various ways to do so - Kal's excellent site...

Mine - still planning but using what I got. Haven't quite got the pump incorporated yet but hope to use it for various tasks like sparging, whirlpooling, etc.

thowing in my hat.

A bit pricier but thanks for the link. Have to think if it is worth it for F. Interesting they do it with just 7 posts instead of the 8 on the STC-1000.

Yeah, I probably just could have gotten another (they're a few bucks cheaper than the 2 stage) and used one for cooling and one for heating. But this way (having a 2 stage on order) I'll have an extra single for something.

About to try my hand at this. I just used some Ruby flux and regular plumbing solder (less than 1% silver) on soldering some stainless washers to the undersides of my corny keg lids for hanging dry hop teaballs. It worked fine. But for boil kettle and all, thinking I may want to go with the...

Just curious what folks do - I bought some large vinyl type blowback tubes from my local-ish brew supply store for my carboys. One fits sort of snug but not tight, and the other is loose enough for a bit of gap. I would like them both to fit much more tightly.. curious if there's a trick. I...