Search results

I'm just wondering if you get better results. On a more theoretical level I am wondering what is better (for ultimate flavor) pitching with a larger volume of sleeping yeasts or a smaller volume of recently awakened yeasts?

That's what I always do and I always get super fast and vigorous fermentation. Do you get better results with the complete/delayed method?

How about adding powdered Amylase enzyme to the mini-mash?

Could someone comment on whether I am right or wrong about this? Is the bottom layer trub or active yeasts? Does it depend on how long the starter has been going?

I guess I am not as interested in "why" they changed as I am in "how" they changed, and really I am just interested in drinking SNPA as it used to taste. I remember it having a flavor that I distinctly believed, at the time, could not have been just malt and hops. Did they use any spruce or...

I could be wrong, but I believe the bottom layer that forms within the first day of creating a yeast starter is the hot break / trub layer from boiling the DME, and not the yeast. The yeast is in suspension in the unfermented DME, is it not?

What is the lightest extract and is it dry or liquid?

Yeah, 2 cases generally equals 5 gallons. You might want a few extra to spare.

10 years ago Sierra Nevada Pale Ale was the first real "microbrew" that to me had a signature flavor and gourmet status. What happened??? Now it tastes bland and dull. It used to have a very distinctive piney/floral taste/aroma. Did they change the recipe? Did going "macro" screw it all up? It...

just make your starter in the moring and pitch the whole thing in the evening and stop worrying so much.

Well, pro brewers use enzymes to achieve maximum dryness, so what do they do? I would assume they have some way of denaturing the enzymes once the appropriate dryness level has been achieved.

I guess it's time to buy one of these:

I usually make a starter the morning of brew day. I boil 1 cup DME with 1 quart of water for 5 minutes, add it to a half gallon clear jug and affix an airlock. In the meantime, I break the smack pack, let it swell for an hour or two. I then add the yeast to the jug and begin brewing...

OK, so the chiller worked fine, but, my plastic siphoning device melted in the recently boiling wort. It was one of those auto siphon pumpy thingys (about $15) and I really liked it. I had to break it in half multiple times to keep drawing off the bottom of the kettle and restart the siphoning...

I have heard of waiting for the beer yeast to finish and then adding champagne yeast to boost the alcohol/dryness afterwards, but 2 yeasts at the same time? I thought that was inadvisable due to yeast competition creating off flavors? Also, to achieve maximum dryness, you could have just...

Yeah, I am really sure they care. I think there must be some kind of rule of thumb in law that if a kid is bright enough to figure out how to brew their own, they get to drink it.

I started brewing to get beer underage. Thus, I cannot take this poll since that isn't a listed option.

I always make a starter with the Wyeast cultures and usually my brew is bubbling before I go to sleep that same evening. Next day? Fuggedaboutit. First thing the next morning there's a huge head and tons of bubbling.

I always thougt stouts were supposed to have very little hop aroma. Personal taste though.

You shouldn't have dumped your "contaminated" brew. One of the best beers I ever brewed was "contaminated". Apparently, "souring" is an actual brewing process that can lend interesting flavors.