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ditto... i put my temp probe directly next to the cartridge and actually used the "top" to exit my rims tube. I also have a flow sensor so i'm not heating if there is no flow, but also with the temp sensor in place it won't heat the liquid in tube past my set temp anyway. So far about 10...

Yup,i got impatient and pitched some 3711 on top... the cell count for 5g at 1.030 matches 100b that are in the packet. It was still going, just less than a point a day. I could see signs of active fermentation;i just don't have patients to wait 2 more weeks for it to finish. I got a taste...

wy3724, seeing the same issue... pitched at 70 and let free-rise to 80-85 for two weeks. Had a pretty active fermentation (krausen over lid/headspace). Hit 1.034 and pretty much stalled out... bumped it to 90degF with a belt, still barely moving. I can see tiny bubbles around the carboy, so...

Hard to believe scorching with such low wattage... even if it is short. Is it possible at any time the pump stopped or had slow flow? If not then it may just be to high density for watttage/length/area. Only options to combat that would be to pump faster (rice hulls or larger crush) or set...

I'm not really seeing any buildup... but I don't get a look at my element until I've already cleaned. I also use a cartridge element similar to augiedoggy because I thought it would be much easier to clean. I got one with a NPT base and screwed it into an element adapter in my RIMS tube...

Right... what i am getting at is there is no "co2 layer" that your disturbing when you transfer or bottle... rather that the fermenter is mostly co2 because the o2 has been consumed. Any leftover ambient o2 in the carboy likely got purged by active ferm. You could leave the carboy alone for a...

Yeah... i wasnt speaking to a co2 layern more that during fermentation the yeast consume o2 and expell co2 which pushes/mixes the atmosphere out the airlock. Enough co2 is produced during ferm that you can be sure aftwr "primary" the fermenter has little to no o2 inside. Once you pop that top...

You should be fine for up to 1.050-60ish beers... the mash tun size has more to do with how much grain (OG and batch size) and the grain to water ratio. The Green Bay Rackers has a neat calc that can help you figure out if "you can mash it", plugin your grain weight and water ratio to see if...

In the off chance that this isn't a joke, i'll mention the oxygen exposure by trying to grab the trub by hand... you don't want to open the fermenter while you're still conditioning because o2 will rush in and mix with the co2. Your beer won't go "bad" but it will oxidize faster and won't be...

Try bending the plug ends a little in, or out... sometimes i've found they won't quite "hold" if they're loose... bending the ends "in" just a tad will make them stay (mine hang down under the panel). I suspect if yours are too snuck it may be getting stuck/caught when trying to unlatch.

Was going to say i had a similar issue initially with my GFCI breaker, the curly-queue white wire has to go to the neutral bus bar. If you're worried about hurting yourself just hire another electrician to dbl check the work... call up some guys, explain the situation and ask how much they'd...

I think i may have misspoke, or you miss understood... dbl check their website. They have a "domed" bottom design... the bottom 1/2" is actually stepped "down". So on their drawings they're showing you the depth measured from the bottom of the "kettle" but not the to the ground if you put the...

I had my 20g kettle made by spike... Herms/HLT and then the BK. I requested one TC at 2.5" and the other at 3.5" (dual elements). I've attached some pictures so you can see what the clearance is like. FYI, the measurement is from the bottom of the side of the kettle when spike draws them...

Good point... if you go down to 2 vessel setup there wouldn't be an "HLT" to clean if you use it as the BK. Then the only issue would be having enough volume to cover an element in the hlt/bk. If you're only down to 75% eff as a result of an unltra thin mash then it may be worth the trade off...

to be honest, i cant' imagine you'd be that far off even you haven't calibrated in a several months. A 5.09 vs 5.4 is pretty large. I use a Hanna phep5 and read with the probe directly in the mash tun. I usually get 5.2-5.3, when i get below 5.2 and correct I see the correction take affect...

Gotcha... well, then carry on :) Always good to ask questions....

You shouldn't worry about residual sani, that won't do much. As far as age on the chems... they should be fine if properly stored. If you're worried about the lactic you always measure it, or just buy some new for piece of mind. The chems may have taken in water if stored in a non-airtight...

What you're describing is more of a RIMs setup where you're using the entire HLT as a rim's tube since the "wort" will be in contact with the HLT coils to maintain it's temp. When dealing with RIMs the size of the tube affects how fast you can heat and how much larger your mash thickness needs...

That's exciting... i emailed asking a few vendors about 2" tc versions of elements and none had planned to make any. When swapping up to a 5500 i considered getting one to see if its easier than managing the adapters with pigtails. At least theyre out there... hopefully the prices will come...

I also went with the still dragon, they are def good quality. I bought 4x as i did dual elements in my hlt and bk. Solid pieces, no complaints.