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I would not recommend it but manual direct fire can be done. I made many fine beers that way. It requires all your attention and is a monotonous job though. Try it a few times, then do yourself a favor and spend the 90 bucks on a PID and Solenoid. Ozzy, I also heat and pump my strike...

Everything looks solid. Your system will be great, and it will make your brewing much more enjoyable. Manual control is fine, I went for quite a while without the solenoid. But since I added it, I can't imagine going back. Good luck

Your plan is fine. Your proposed set up is basically the same as what I have been running for the past year. Temp monitoring going back into the MLT is a nice to have, but not needed. You really need to know what the temp of the liquid is coming out of the MLT... If you keep the temp coming...

Thats a beer that could send me to the hospital. Good luck!

That is some what of a myth. Yes, they are a natural preservative and have anti bacterial properties once they are in your beer. However it would be virtually impossible that your hops are not covered in bacteria and wild yeast. It's the low PH, alcohol, and the hop compounds that are already...

I say just add them. There is little risk of infection when adding them to your fermented beer. Nobody I know sanatizes hops when they dry hop in the secondary. Its really the same concept.

Haha, just came across this thread. I just used this strain in my RIS that I brewed yesterday and I cannot wait to try it. I just recently had a beer from Great Divide called Belgian Style Yeti. They make 4 or 5 variations of this beer and I have tried three of them. I could not believe how...

No doubt they are nice. But $$$, and in mine opinion very thin. I would be afraid of dinging it up. I went with the 26 gallon heavy duty brew kettle from more beer. It's over $200 less than the blichmann and I could not be happier.

Here is the 5 gallon recipe for Yeti that was in BYO magazine several years ago. The challenge is which yeast to use to make the Belgian style version. Great Divide claims all their yeasts are proprietary. I am planning on making this in the next week or two. I am thinking Wyeast 1762 or...

Looks like both ends are closed. You could cut it in half and have a 40 gallon boil kettle and 40 gallon mash vessel or HLT. Or don't cut it dead center and pull out a 20 gallon boil kettle and 20 gallon HLT and scrap the middle section.

-------------------------- Batch Size (fermenter): 10.00 gal Boil Size: 14.00 gal Estimated OG: 1.045 SG Estimated Color: 3.1 SRM Estimated IBU: 21.4 IBUs Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00 % Boil Time: 90 Minutes Amt Name Type # %/IBU 8 lbs Pilsner (2 Row) Bel (2.0 SRM) Grain 38.1 % 2 lbs...

I just got the score sheet back on this one from a local home brew contest. I ended up submitting it in the American wheat category. After tasting it that was the most appropriate place for it. It did pretty will with an overall score of 38. One of the judges even gave it a 42. Some of the...

Here is my work in progress. Just started on it last night...

Here are some of the labels I have created over the past few years... never shared them on this site before.

It is nearly impossible to truly exceed 100 IBU I don't care what your brewing software tells you. And like Yooper says, there is not much detectible difference between 80 and 100 anyway. That kit was designed with the help of Surly head brewer Todd Haug. Make the kit as is.

I brewed 15 gallons of Surly Cynic Ale based on the Pro kit recipe from Northern Brewer today. I put 10 into my conical with the standard WLP550. I put the other 5 gallons in a carboy and pitched WLP670. I am really looking forward to see how it turns out and how different it is than the 550.

Should be a great beer. You should get huge passion & tropical fruit flavor and aroma. There is a brewry down under that produces a similar beer. Check this out: http://stoneandwood.com.au/pacific-ale.html

No. You split the bean open and scrape out the paste. Some people also scrape the contents into a shot of vodka and make there own extract. There is quite a bit of information on the site about using vanilla beans.

I have made a few batchs of this. My advice is use real vanilla beans. I have used extract before and did not care for it nearly as much. I scrape 1 1/2 beans into five gallons (secondary). Also that the vanilla flavor will fade over time.

The great thing about home brewing (and craft brewing) is you can do whatever you like. That of course doesn't mean it will be any good, or that anyone besides it's creator might like it. But the fact that it occurs is good. If that were not the case we would all still be sucking down light...