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Sounds like something from the White House.:) I would agree with the above: infection

use cocoa nibs if you can in secondary, and IF you keg. put them right in the keg as well. Also adding rice syrup solids at flameout will add a little ABV bump and sweeten the perceived "milk" from the lactose. We have one on tap right now we call Chocolate Milk for Adults

Northern and MoreBeer both make a Moose Drool knockoff that is spectacular. we've brewed it 4 times and are brewing it again this weekend. Use NW Ale yeast or 1056 or irish. Add an extra pound of DME for a nice ABV bump. The Nut Brown from Northern is fantastic but can be a little weak like...

or you can download a program like BrewR or beercalc for your smartphone and plug in your formulae. I have found BrewR to be remarkably accurate! within a 0.2% for ABV. it will provide you OG, projected FG and ABV based on those values.

as you'll read often in this forum regarding primary only: 3 weeks minimum. more time if you have it to kill. i routinely do 3 weeks for lower gravity stuff and 4+ for higher gravity 1.060+ good brewing!

I have started just leaving it in primary for 3 to 4 weeks depending upon OG per MANY suggestions to do so on this and other sites, rather than risking infection with transfer. ALSO cold crashing in the fridge for 3 days before kegging has been the best move i've made for clarifying beer. you...

I was a secondary fan until 3 batches ago when i started cold crashing my beer. I will not go back to using secondaries unless i absolutely have to. Leaving it on the yeast cake doesn't hurt it, and cold crashing yields clearer beer than i've ever experienced with a secondary. I go straight...

I'd bet good money that you'll have no problems whatsoever. There are posts on this site and other forums about racking 2.5 gallons of wort onto 2.5 gallons of star-san solution with no ill effects. Slightly more acidic beer maybe, but probably no problem at all.

The recipe is based on 2.5 gallon boil. so if you are trying to make the recipe as it suggests and get a true Dead Ringer then just follow the instructions. If you change the parameters of the boil and do a split then it really doesn't matter what other items you have changed because you have...

+1 PBW is a miracle, if it is still dirty after 24 hours in a solution of that then i would chuck it!

Something one of the posters mentioned earlier is the yeast. Both the fusel alcohol standpoint AND the yeast themselves. You may have developed a sensitivity (allergy) to the yeast. It could be affecting you with intestinal problems or give you the headaches and "flu like" symptoms. Does...

absolutely positively ditto the above post. no drying.

Often it will vary by the amount you have mentioned between readings just based on temperature. You can often take readings from the same pipette 5 minutes apart and get the kind of variance mentioned above. but distilled water at room temp should be done periodically to calibrate.

good thing you don't believe everything you read on the internet.... In addition to rinsing, it is also good to spit shine the ends of your bottles before capping them. as a matter of fact just rinse with water because that will be sufficient to sanitize your bottles. There's no such thing...

Sanitize and you should be fine. The foaming action will push things out not in. Get some saran wrap and sanitize it first. Take off the lid and drop the saran over the top to keep out big floaties in the air and clean the lid and replace. Blow off tube next time! One of my favorite brews...

Don't rinse. Then it is no longer sanitized. Don't fear the foam. it kills bacteria and NOT yeast. There are dozens of stories about people brewing with GALLONS of sanistar in their primaries. I've brewed a dozen or more beers with tons of foam in the carboy and no issues and no problems...