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I've highlighted the ION's and info you should be concerned about in the attached PDF. You need to get rid of the chlorine. Use Campden Tablets (Sodium Metabisulphite) to treat it. Other than that you have decent water. The first thing is treat the chlorine....and adjust for mash ph (lactic...

Can you post a link to one of the water reports?

I wonder what kind of flavors 6oz of hops along with all the kettle trub left to cool overnight could produce.... Next time rack the beer off the kettle trub into a food safe, heat proof vessel to cool. That would be the first thing I would recommend if your going to continue doing no chill.

Yep.

Was the starter active when you pitched it? Did you account for where both the starter and the beer were at gravity wise? And the volume of the beer? Also, volume of the starter? Yeah...you could pull some wort off during brewday....do it during the mash because your going to be saving...

Exactly. It’s not too complicated. Also, if he had brewed a similar beer recently and if it’s fermenting...he could just pull some of that off and use it.

Yes you would just make a starter. And use this calculator to help with volumes: https://www.brewersfriend.com/gyle-and-krausen-priming-calculator/ I’m worried because of your low pitching rate and the long fermentation. A beer like that would hit FG in probably 5-6 days. If your smelling...

Once you have crashed the yeast, the diacetyl precursors are locked in. I doubt warming it back up will help much. Even if it’s still on the cake. But you could try (I say this because of the gravity points you have left which may be enough to get the yeast active again) and if the diacetyl...

Nice....that works good....done it many times. Yeah another rack isn’t perfect (good enough for my house though)...just trying to help you with a version of Braufessor’s technique.

That yeast pictured came from a beer with three ounces in the whirlpool....from a 2.5 gallon batch of beer. Whirlfloc at 5 min, do whatever whirlpool you want, and let settle before racking to a fermentor. Didn’t you post a picture where you were purging two kegs off the fermenter? Push from...

Ferment a beer. Do a closed transfer to a keg with hops. Harvest clean yeast from the primary vessel. This particular jar pictured below is fresh from when I transfer to spund....that's why its got a krausen...but you could easily wait until gravity has become stable and transfer to a purged...

When I think my beer has hit final gravity...I then wait until I can’t smell or taste diacetyl (look up a forced diacetyl test). Predicted FG will be hit in 2-5 days depending on gravity and then the beer needs 2-5 more days to clean up. Once I can’t detect the diacetyl....I crash it and get...

He couldn’t control the temp as he stated above. So once fermentation slows down the temperature of the liquid will cool especially if no temperature control with the ambient temp surrounding the beer. Ambient temp will fluctuate from day to night. Unless something is done about it. He’s not...

If you want to know what something contributes, keep it simple. Do a Pilsner and wheat grain bill. Maybe 80/20 to start. 3711 will dry that beer out regardless of the sugar if given appropriate time...especially with that mash temp. Then next time, do a Pilsner and carapils combo. Simple can...

If you had no temperature control...your 78 degrees in the day could drop at night due to ambient temps dropping...this also causes the beer to contract especially if it’s hit final gravity and not producing any co2....and then it pulls in o2. So...possibly the beer was being jerked around in...

Just as a side note on the history of the style....this is a pretty interesting read: http://lostbeers.com/fact-check-yvan-de-baets-on-saison-and-the-results-may-shock-you/ I like this guys idea on water treatment for the style...

More Suarez for us.

This yeast gives off esters within its advertised fermentation temperature range and pitching rate. Adjust your recipe. Less hops (or other adjuncts) will allow the esters to come through more. Low temps will require longer fermentation time....as well as low pitching rates....also not to...

For a moderate ABV beer say 1.050-1.055 this yeast will hit FG in 2-3 days...after that it’s just clean up... A good diacetyl rest pushed into the high 60’s to 70’s towards the end helps...7 to 8 days total seems to work....10 days is the most I’ll go. Then crash the yeast. Important to get...

Or they don’t clean their canning machine very well between different beers.